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Caesar Salad: The
Dish That Must Be Prepared
Tableside
Harry, who writes from Edinburgh, says this about tableside preparation of dishes in restaurants: There is one dish for which it makes all the difference: Caesar salad. I had my first-ever Caesar at Cardini's restaurant in Mexico City, the Cardini in question being the brother of Caesar Cardini, who invented the dish in Tijuana. It (the one in Mexico City) was made tableside, and I was hooked. A long-gone Brailizian-Italian place in Hollywood made their Caesar that way, and the late-night waiter, who was a master, then went on to be maitre d' at a SF Valley restaurant called Val's, and carried his mastery there. When that place closed, I couldn't get a proper Caesar until Emeril's Delmonico opened. I think of most tableside prep as pure showbiz (like most airport security), but a real Caesar tastes radically different from the other kind, and, once you've had a real one properly made, far, far superior. Revised 3/10/08 Copyright © 2008 Tom Fitzmorris. All rights reserved. |
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