New Orleans Food Questions And Comments

Cooking A Whole Beef Tenderloin

Paul asks:
I am considering preparing a whole beef tenderloin and I'm interested in any suggestions you might have for preparation. I have an outdoor grill but I'm not sure grilling is preferable to roasting. The basic recipes I've seen make it sound as though it's pretty simple. Can you share any ideas you may have on this topic?

Tom sez:
In fact, I think there is no better way to prepare a whole tenderloin than to do it on the grill. If you'd like a second opinion on that, I can tell you that when Chef Gerard Crozier had his excellent Chateaubriand Steakhouse, that is exactly how he cooked the namesake dish. (A chateaubriand is a large center cut from the tenderloin.)

There's one tricky matter, however. Tenderloins are much thicker at one end than at the other, and even cooking takes some attention. I always cut about two or three inches off the narrow end and use it for other purposes. I position the butt end over the hottest part of the grill, and keep that attitude even as I turn the whole roast during the grilling.

As for seasoning, I use a pretty generous coating of Creole seasoning, or a good bit of coarsely-ground black pepper. I would also recommend applying the amount of salt you think is about right, and then coming back with the same amount one more time.

I like either of two sauces with a whole tenderloin. Bearnaise is classic. So is a creamy peppercorn sauce, made in a pan in which I sear the beef a little before it goes out to the grill.

For medium rare, take the beef off the gril at 130 degrees on the meat thermometer. It will actually be rare at that point, but will contain enough heat to keep cooking up to medium rare after about ten minutes. By that time, all the juices are re-absorbed by the meat, giving that fantastic texture you get when you do one of these things whole.

Revised 3/10/08

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