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Why Aren't Oysters Salty Right Now? 

A number of people reported and wondered about this on the radio show yesterday:

The oysters right now are large and meaty, but they almost seem bland because they're as unsalty as any oysters we have in awhile. What's going on?

Tom sez:

I was about to answer this when I got an e-mail from Frank Brigtsen, who nailed the situation. So I'll let him tell you:

The salinity of our oysters is totally determined by the rise and fall of the Mississippi River. It is extremely high right now and pushing a lot of fresh water into the oyster-growing areas.

The freshwater diversions are contributing to this reduction in salinity as well. February and March are probably the best months to eat Louisiana oysters, but I know the Caernarvon diversion near Delacroix usually opens in February, which messes up the oysters and saltwater fishing in general. The Caernarvon diversion on the east side of the river, and the Davis Pond diversion on the West Bank, are pushing the oystermen out of traditional growing areas.

The pros and cons of the freshwater diversions could be debated forever, but they are here and helping us slow coastal erosion, though not everyone is sold on that idea. Coastal erosion may be the biggest problem we face in Louisiana. Hurricane protection is one issue we are all aware of now, but our fisheries are also suffering. As we lose marsh, the band of brackish water that nutures our seafood gets more narrow every year. The oyster-growing areas are shrinking at an alarming rate. Oystermen have been preaching this for years and it is all too true.

For all of our sakes, we must save what marsh and coast we have to protect ourselves, our homes, our cuisine, and our culture. Ask Drago Cvtanovich about Empire. The marsh there is gone. From Hwy. 23 to the Gulf, it's now all open water.

Seafood is probably the only wild food most people eat anymore, so we must take what nature gives us, when it is given. One can't blame the restaurants if something is not available or not at its best.--Frank Brigtsen.

Revised 3/10/08

Copyright © 2008 Tom Fitzmorris. All rights reserved.
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