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Fried Chicken

Confession: I never make fried chicken the same way twice. It's a work in progress that's been going on for over ten years. This recipe is a compilation of all the elements that have worked well.

The big problem with cooking chicken any way is that the various pieces cook at different rates. This is why, I suspect, the Colonel used to cut his chicken differently than the standard breast-wing-thigh-drumstick configuration. I like that idea, if you're up to cutting your own chickens. What you do is pull the breastbone of the chicken out to the two tenders still attached. This removes about a third of the meat from each breast, making it more the size of the other pieces.

The problem is not entirely solved. Breast meat cooks faster than leg meat of the same size. So consider that as you cook. One more thing. There is no question that the flavor of the chicken gets better after you've fried about six pieces. And that it starts deteriorating after you've fried about sixteen pieces. So refresh the oil--strain it and add fresh--along the way.

Marinade:

• 1 quart buttermilk
• 2 Tbs. salt
• 1/4 cup yellow mustard
• 1 Tbs. tarragon
• 1 Tbs. dill
• 1 Tbs. garlic-flavored Tabasco

• 2 whole chickens, cut up into breast tenderloin, two breasts, two thighs, two drumsticks, and two wings

Coating:

• 4 cups self-rising (yes!) flour
• 2 Tbs. black pepper
• 1/2 tsp. white pepper
• 1/4 tsp. cayenne
• 1 tsp. marjoram
• 1 tsp. thyme
• 1 1/2 tsp. turmeric
• 1 Tbs. granulated onion

• 2 cups vegetable oil

1. Combine the marinade ingredients, mixing until the salt is dissolved. Divide the chicken among gallon food storage bags. Add enough marinade to complete soak the chicken. Place the bags in the refrigerator eight hours to overnight.

2. Remove the chicken from the marinade and shake off excess. Place the chicken pieces on a rack over a pan (the racks you use to cool cakes are perfect). Place the chicken out of the way but in the open air, and allow to warm up for about a half hour.

3. When ready to begin cooking, combine the coating ingredients in a bowl. Pour into a large, clean paper bag.

4. Heat the oil in a deep, heavy pot to 375 degrees.

5. Put three or four pieces of chicken into the bag with the seasonings. Shake to coat uniformly. (The bag method will also shake off excess coating.)

6. Using tongs, put four or five pieces of chicken into the hot oil and fry, without turning, for eight to ten minutes. Turn it over and fry on the other side, again for eight to ten minutes. The color you're looking for is a bit darker than the usual golden brown.

7. As you remove the chicken from the pot, drain it on paper towels. If nobody grabs it immediately (the recommended way of eating fried chicken), keep it warm in a 150-degree oven until serving.

Serves four to eight.

Revised 3/29/08

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