Archived Article By Tom Fitzmorris Originally published March 21, 2008 Muriel's And Marigny Brasserie Two Chef Changes Yesterday, two chefs of note began new segments of their careers at two excellent restaurants. Gus Martin, who has run the kitchen at Ralph's on the Park most of the time since the hurricane, has moved on to Muriel's on Jackson Square as executive chef. I think this is the first assignment outside the Brennan restaurant family for Gus, who previously was the top cook at Dickie Brennan's Steakhouse and the Palace Cafe. Gus had a family connection. His mother, Viva Martin, was a long-time waiter at Commander's Palace, and spent years in dining room management at various Brennan operations. She too is now at Muriel's, where she runs a service education program for the staff. They both have a familiar boss. Rick Gratia, the managing partner of Muriel's, himself put in many years with the Brennans. Meanwhile, the Marigny Brasserie has a new chef in Daniel Esses, the former executive chef in the now-closed Bank Cafe. I don't know where Esses has been in the six or so months since the Bank closed, but his cooking there was seriously good, and should fit right into the hip style of the Marigny Brasserie. Of course, it's much too early to say what will happen to either chef or restaurant. But both these guys seem to me to be good fits for their new assignments. Muriel's. French Quarter: 801 Chartres. 568-1885. Marigny Brasserie. Marigny: 640 Frenchmen. 945-4472. © 2008 Tom Fitzmorris. All rights reserved. news@nomenu.com