New Orleans Menu Daily
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Eat Club
Join Tom Fitzmorris and friends for unique weekly wine dinners!

Wed, Nov. 14, 6:30 p.m.
Impastato's
Five courses and wines, $75

Click here for menu and reservations.

Mardi Gras 2008
Hawaii
Feb. 2-9
   Deadline: Nov. 9!  
We're looking ahead to our winter cruise: to the Hawaiian Islands. We'll board the ship in Honolulu, then cruise the islands for seven nights. We'll overnight in a couple of ports, allowing time for luaus or great dinners in some of the restaurants there. (Along with lots of beach time in the day.) It will be cold in New Orleans then, so get away with us to the Islands!

Click here for itinerary, fares, and reservations.

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You can now listen to a special one-hour weekly edition of The Food Show with Tom Fitzmorris online! 
Click here to listen
"Best Cookbook
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New Orleans Food
Now in its fifth printing, here are the best dishes we're eating today in New Orleans, with clear, well-tested recipes you and your friends will love.

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~~~
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About Our
Restaurant Ratings

Since the hurricane, Menu has returned to our old five-star rating system. (Things are still too much in a state of flux for our scale-of-100 precision to make sense.) Here's what the ratings mean:

«««««
Among the best locally.

««««
Excellent and ambitious.

«««
Worth crossing town for.


««
Recommended.


«
Acceptable.


¡
Unacceptable.

We rate restaurants relative to all other restaurants. The rating is based on the entire experience. What goes into that varies from place to place. But the top-rated restaurants show excellence in all areas.

Cost Ratings
Each dollar sign indicates a ten-dollar range, including a normal meal for the restaurant (dinner, if they serve other meals), not including drinks, or tips. So, for example. . .
  • 1$--$5-15
  • 2$--$15-25
  • 3$--$25-35
. . . and so on, with no upper limit. While this may seem to have mathematical precision, it varies from diner to diner as much as the star ratings do. So consider this an estimate.



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FIVE-STAR EDITION  Monday, October 29, 2007

NOTE TO SUBSCRIBERS: For the next two weeks, I will be on another of our Eat Club cruises, from San Diego to Florida by way of the Panama Canal. I will continue to publish the newsletter, but on a reduced schedule. I'll have new articles on this page every day, including my cruise journal. But because of the squirrely Internet service at sea, I will be limited to only two or three e-mail editions each week. But remember: there's nothing in the e-mail that isn't on this page. Bookmark it for easy access. Thanks once again for your subscription!

871 Restaurants Now Open
809
Before The Hurricane
. For a listing by neighborhood, with ratings, addresses, phone numbers, and menu style, click here. For the same list sorted by cuisine, click here.

Today's Menu
Red denotes new stuff in the last 24 hours.
New Orleans Food Almanac
Dire Straits. Oatmeal. Quinoa. Turkey Day (In Turkey).
Under The Table
Fire Reopens In Grayton Beach, Florida.
Dining Diary
Cleanup. Sharing Some Old Wines.  Bistro Daisy.
Restaurant Report
Sixty Best Ethnic Restaurants Countdown: #18, Pupuseria Divino Corazon.
Questions And Comments
Warren Leruth's Pecan Pie Recipe (And Others).
Recipe
Oat Bran And Apple Muffins.
Food Link Of The Day
Fast Food Restaurant Bans Becoming More Common.
Back To The Wall.
Creating Improbability.

Food Almanac

Monday, October 29, 2007

   The Egg Is Laid 
This is the anniversary of Black Tuesday, the day Wall Street laid an egg (as Variety reported), and the stock market lost about a fifth of its value in one day. It would get a lost worse before it got better. This day is usually noted as the beginning of the Great Depression. Which changed eating habits for a lot of people. Many of us know (or were descendants of) folks whose styles of cooking were very frugal. My own mother (and most people of her generation) were that way. One of the first books written by legendary food writier M.F. K. Fisher was on this subject: How To Cook A Wolf, referring to the proverbial wolf at the door.

   Turkey Day  
Not Thanksgiving, but the National Day of the modern country of Turkey. The former Ottoman Empire, defeated in World War I, ceased to exist today in 1923. In its place was a secular republic, led by Mustafa Kemal Ataturk. In the next few years, the Islamic government of the former sultanate was completely erased. Turkey is now quite modern, as we learned last year on our Eat Club cruise there. The food is Middle Eastern food in its original form; most of the countries formerly ruled by the Ottoman Empire took up the Turkish style of cooking.

   Alluring Dinner Dates  
Actress Kate Jackson, who was one Charlie's Angels on TV, was born  today in 1948.

   Food Funnies  
Restaurant Criticism Starts At The Bottom. Click here for today's cartoon.

  Food Calendar 
This is supposed to be
National Oatmeal Day. Like many dishes associated with cold days, oratmeal is not as widely eaten around New Orleans as it is elsewhere. (The competition from grits probably figures into that, too.) However, we certainly eat our share of oatmeal muffins hereabouts. I have a recipe for my version of it elsehwere in today's newsletter.

   Ticker Tape Of Taste  
All these from the Celebrity Infinity, cruising with the Eat Club along the west coast of Mexico: Size of martinis (for $10.50) in the Martini Bar 99. . . attractiveness of the $15 five-martini tasting 91. . . Unnamed fish served as the chef's special in the Trellis Dining Room last night 42. . . Stew of vegetables and quinoa (a South American grain) underneat that fish 85. . . 1978 Warre's vintage port in the jazz lounge 92. . . Size of whale following the ship early this morning 82. All ratings are on a scale of 100. 100=best, 50=average, 0=worst.

  Edible Dictionary 
quinoa, n.--A plant native to the Andean region of South America, and grown for its leaves and (more common i our markets) its seeds. It's not a grass, but its seeds are typically used in the same way that cereals are. It is often hailed as a new crop, but it's not been grown wit tremendous commercial success yet. It resembles coarse ritis, excelt that the morsels are translicent and have a nutty taste.

  Food Names 
Steven Sweet, drummer for the heavy metal band Warrant, was born today in 1965. Their song Cherry Pie went platinum. . . Yankee shortstop Frank Baker was born today in 1946.

  Words To Eat By 
"The Americans are a funny lot; they drink whiskey to keep them warm; then they put some ice in it to make it cool; they put some sugar in it to make it sweet, and then they put a slice of lemon in it to make it sour. Then they say 'here's to you' and drink it themselves."--B.N. Chakravarty.


Under The Table

Fire Reopens In Grayton Beach, Florida

Fire, a good and original cafe in an old Warehouse District firehouse, closed a few months ago. But it has reappeared on the Florida Gulf Coast, east of Destin, in the magnificent Grayton Beach strip. Enough first-class restaurants are along Highway 30-A to call the area a restaurant row.

Owner Brenda Darr lost her lease on the firehouse, exacerbating a tremendous loss of people in the Annunciation Street neighborhood. The apartment buildings across the street closed en masse after the hurricane, and that stole a lot of Fire's business. She managed to persuade a number of her employees to relocate to Florida, and now, there they are. The menu seems more ambitious than it was here, but that makes sense: there's more money on the Redneck Riviera than here.

Hate to see her go, but don't blame her. And there are New Orleanians aplenty around Destin. Here's the web site for more information.

Fire. 55 Clayton Lane, Grayton Beach, Florida. 850-231-9020. American.


Recent News Articles
Twenty-Five Best Neighborhood Restaurants.
Commander's And Cafe Adelaide Chefs Create Egg-cellent Wine Dinner. 10/12/07.
Oktoberfest Going On At Deutsches Haus And Elsewhere. 10/11/07.
Talks About New Orleans Food At Historic New Orleans Collection. 10/11/07.
Susan Spicer's Cookbook Coming Oct. 23; Special Menus Come With It.
Seeking Passion Late In Life [Matters Of Taste]. 10/5/07.
Feast With The Stars, Brunchtime October 14. 10/1/07.
Patois Opens Uptown, In Former Nardo's. 10/5/07.
Charlie's Steak House Will Return. 9/27/07.

All past news articles are archived and indexed here.

Dining Diary

Sunday, October 21. Cleanup. Sharing Some Old Wines. I left a pretty substantial mess in my kitchen after assembling that dinner for my auction buyers yesterday. Cleaning that up took up most of the morning. And, with the girls due back home tomorrow, I knew I had better do so.

During those labors, I got a call from Chuck Billeaud, who said his girls, like mine, had left him alone at home. Did I want to join him for lunch? Pork loin, dirty rice, sauteed eggplant, all delicious. I found a couple of bottles of wine yesterday that wouldn't have fit into the big dinner last night, and brought them along. We only go through the 1990 Robert Mondavi Napa Cabernet Sauvignon (which was delicious and showing the benefits of aging). We didn't get around to the other bottle, a 1985 Etude. Chuck said he'd save it for our next dinner together at his house.

Spent the better part of the evening getting more best-of radio shows (that's what we call reruns) ready for the two weeks I'll be away on the cruise. As always, the hours I spend on work that I need to finish before going on vacation is often greater than the time I take off work itself.

Monday, October 22. Rain. Mary Ann and Mary Leigh were due to fly home today. But a tremendous mass of thunderstorms headed this way, eventually dumping over five inches of rain in a lot of the city. The flights were cancelled, and they were stuck in Washington, DC for another day. This also required them to get back into town from the Baltimore-Washington Airport--no small feat, carrying all the bags they were.

The rain was bad enough that I didn't leave the house. I made a hamburger and fried so French fries, trying a new shape for the latter. I shoved a peeled half of a potato down the chute of the food processor, getting slices that were thicker than potato chips but not as thick as standard fries. About the thickness of Antoine's soufflee potatoes. They came out good, but not great.

Tuesday, October 23. Bistro Daisy. The rain system that dumped on us yesterday is now in Atlanta, but that's where my girls were to have changed planes. Once again, flights were canceled, and they are stuck in Washington DC for another night. Mary Ann is fit to be tied over this. I know that she's really upset now, because she told me she's considering going to Union Station to take a train home. She hates trains as much as I love them, so this is very serious.

I thought Bistro Daisy--the new home of Anton and Diana Schulte, formerly of La Petite Grocery--was so good when I went there a couple of weeks ago that it would oly take one more dinner there to be able to write up a meaningful review. So there I went. A Tuesday night reservation was easily had, and there I was, practically as they opened the doors.

I started with a fantastic oyster concoction with a brothy sauce a lot like the kind that comes with mussels, along with fennel, onions, Herbsaint, and bacon. (Despite those ingredients, this didn't taste anything like oysters Rockefeller.) Then a yellow pepper soup, followed by a seriously delicious fillet of redfish atop a pile of sunflower sprouts. If I've had those, before, I don't remember--but I will now. They were almost too good for what they were.

Tremendously good meal, and for the prices it added up to one of the best white-tablecloth deals I've made in awhile. I am thinking about maybe five-starring this little place--but after the immediate euphoria dissipated, I thought four-star would be appropriate for now. After all, the place has only been open a couple of months.

Click here for recent past entries in this journal, and links to all past entries.

Matters Of Taste

Underrated Main Ingredients

In a very fancy restaurant one night, the soup du jour was cream of celery. When the waiter announced this, my first thought was, "My, they're not trying very hard." But the waiter continued to say that the soup had blue cheese in it, as well as dashes of a few other things.

My wife ordered it. She said it was one of the best soups she'd ever had. I thought it was good, too--although it had to compete with better soups at this restaurant.

Celery.

A bunch of years ago, at the old Crozier's, Chef Gerard Crozier often served braised celery as a side vegetable. I haven't seen him do that lately. It could be that he got tired of people saying, "Celery is your vegetable? Cooked celery?" Knowing the extent to which Chef Gerard ignores this kind of thing when he knows he's serving something good, that may not be it. But it might.

Now that I think of it, a lot of minor vegetables are sitting out there waiting for a spotlight. When's the last time a chef did anything with carrots? He might have had an idea for that, but probably transferred the idea to something hip. Like parsnips or salsify. But why not carrots as an appetizer? I can think of six or seven ways just right off the top of my head. And I'm not even a chef.


Pursuit Of Excellence

Ten Best Restaurants For Eggs,
And Their Best Egg Dishes

1. Brennan's. 417 Royal, 525-9711. Eggs Shannon (poached eggs atop fried trout with creamed spinach and hollandaise).

2. Arnaud’s. 813  Bienville. 523-5433. Eggs Leftus, three poached eggs with three different sauces. Not on the menu anymore, but they'll do it if you ask. This is just at Sunday brunch, by the way.

3. Commander's Palace. 1403 Washington Ave., 899-8221. They've become very creative with eggs over there again, and have something new almost every week, in addition to the familiar classics.

4. Peppermill
. 3524 Severn Ave., 455-2266. Eggs Baptiste Collette (shrimp and seafood sauce).

5. Bourbon House. 300 Bourbon, 553-2278. Tasso eggs Benedict.

6. Andrea's. 300 Bourbon, 553-2278. Frittata with crabmeat, asparagus, and mushrooms (you must ask for this, but they'll be happy to make it).

7. Windsor Court Grill Room. 300 Gravier, 522-1994. Eggs Windsor Court (with mushrooms, smoked salmon, and caviar).

8. Bluebird Cafe. 3625 Prytania, 895-7166. Huevos rancheros.

9. Petunia's 817 St. Louis, 522-6440. Omelettes in general.

10. Begue's. 300 Bourbon, 553-2278. Eggs with lump crabmeat and lobster sauce.

Restaurant Report

Counting Down. . .
The Sixty Best Ethnic Restaurants


The popularity of ethnic dining in New Orleans has mushroomed in the past decade. While we don't have as many exotic restaurants as other major food cities (blame that on the strength of our own local ethnic cuisine), it's getting interesting out there. Enough so that we're counting down the sixty best ethnic restaurant in town with daily reviews.

If there's an ethnic restaurant you think should be on this list, write me at tom@nomenu.com. I'd like to hear your reasoning. And if you know about one I don't, I'd like to. All previous restaurants in the countdown, along with the criteria by which the restaurants were chosen and other introductory information, can be viewed here.

And now, we continue the countdown with. . .

#18

Pupuseria Divino Corazon
1$
Gretna: 2300 Belle Chasse Hwy.
368-5724
Lunch and dinner continuously, Mon.-Sat.
AE, DC, DS, MC, V.
Salvadoran.

The restaurant's curious name tells us that the owners a) have a devotion to the Sacred Heart and b) serve the stuffed tortillas called pupusas, the national dish of El Salvador.

The restaurant was a ramshackle place before the storm, sharing a building with the Salmeron family's other business, a used-tire store. The storm did a lot of damage, so they rebuilt the place completely, eliminating the tires completely and opening a much larger, very pleasant new dining room. Its back wall continues its homage to a familiar image for Catholics: Jesus, pointing to his glowing heart crowned with thorns.

The menu combines Central American dishes with much more familiar Mexican platters. The Mexican stuff is well made, but that's not what puts the Pupuseria on the map. What you want are the rarely-seen Salvadoran specialties, which are even better and very interesting.

The pupusa is a hybrid of a tamale and a tortilla, made with masa corn meal into quarter-inch-thick disks with morsels of pork, cheese, and onions inside, then grilled. It seems to me that these have changed over the years to become plumper and more replete with the stuffings. They cost all of $2.25 each; two or three make a meal. You can get a three-way platter of pupusa with a tangy little salad made of cabbage (it's more or less a cole slaw, hold the mayo), with rice and beans, for just under ten dollars, and be completely satisfied.

Even better--particularly on a first visit--is the faro del Pacifico platter. That brings you a pupusa, a chicken-and-potato-filled tamal (the very large, light, mild kind, wrapped in a banana leaf, not to be confused with Manuel's-style hot tamales), and a pastel de carne (a small fried meat pie). Every part of this is delicious, and classic Central American eating.

The other entrees of note come from the grill, with a fine carne asada (a thin but tender steak with tortillas and pico de gallo) and a grilled chicken. On weekends only, the kitchen makes steak tacos, cubes of beef crusty from the grill, sent out withflour tortillas and a sort of salsa with plenty of cilantro.

The Mexican side of the menu offers "burritos nortenos," stuffed with chicken and cheese and brought out with sour cream, shredded cheese, and salsa. That's a good appetizer to split at the table. The tacos rancheros are made with strips of beef with peppers and onions; they're fajitas, really, but without the razzle-dazzle, and good at that.

The great dessert here used to be a vanilla-scented sweet corn tamale, but that seems to have departed the menu. In its place is the best tres leches cake I've ever had. Tres leches ("three milks," for the evaporated, condensed, and whole milks used in its preparation) is a yellow cake so moist that you could call it actually wet, topped with marshmallow cream. This one is perfection in flavor and texture, almost impossibly good.

The service staff is much snappier than it was in the old days. That's an Americanization of this Salvadoran gem. Fortunately, that trend hasn't really affected the food, which is consistently a delight.

Click here for an index to more than 125 post-K reviews. 


Recipe

Oat Bran And Apple Muffins

Remember oat bran muffins? Remember how they were supposed to bring your cholesterol down, so everybody was eating them? Remember the cartoon about the man who stood in front of the three-story oat bran muffin he had to eat to make up for everything he'd eaten before?

Well, I fell for that stuff, too, and for a couple of years I made a batch of oat bran muffins every two or three weeks, and ate one every day. It was not unpleasant, actually. These are great with a cup of coffee and chicory with hot milk.

Dry ingredients:
1 cup self-rising flour
1 tsp. cinnamon
Dash nutmeg
2 1/2 cups oat bran
1/2 cup pecan pieces
2 medium apples or pears, peeled, cored, and chopped
1/2 cup shredded carrots
1/4 tsp. salt

Wet ingredients:
6 Tbs. canola oil
1/2 cup Steen's cane syrup or molasses
1 1/4 cup buttermilk
1 Tbs. honey
1 Tbs. vanilla
2 egg whites
1 egg yolk

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

1. Combine the flour, cinnamon, nutmeg, and oat bran in a bowl and mix well. Add the other dry ingredients and stir well to distribute everything evenly.

2. Mix all the wet ingredients in a larger bowl. (Measure the syrup after the oil, and it won't stick to the measuring cup.)

3. Pour the dry ingredients into the wet ingredients and, with a minimum of stirring, combine them. making sure all the dry ingredients at the bottom get saturated. The batter should be quite wet.

4. Spoon the batter into greased muffin tins. Fill each pocket about 90 percent full. Bang the muffin tins down on the counter to settle and even out the batter.

5. Bake in a 400-degree preheated oven for 25 to 30 minutes. Larger muffins will, obviously, take longer. Aluminum tins bake faster than stainless steel, but the latter are preferable.

6. Remove from oven and cool. Freeze the muffins you don't plan on eating right away.

Makes fifteen to eighteen muffins.

Click here for an index to more than 225 recipes from past editions.

Questions And Comments

Warren Leruth's Pecan Pie Recipe (And Others)

Bobby asks: My wife swears she used to have Warren Leruth's  recipe for pecan pie, and that I was the one who lost the recipe. I have been doing searches on the internet for his recipe, but cannot find it. You're my last resort. I need to get off of this damn sofa at night--my back is killing me!

Tom sez: I know whereof you speak, brother. Warren Leruth didn't publish many of his recipes, and fewer still were for dishes he served at the restaurant. The pecan pie was one of the "back door" recipes in his Front Door, Back Door cookbook, a little collection he put out in the 1970s. Here it is:

3 eggs
2/4 cup sugar
1 tsp. vanilla
1 cup white Karo syrup
1/2 stick butter, melted
1 cup pecans
1 nine-inch unbaked pie shell

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

1. Mix eggs, sugar and syrup thoroughly. Then stir in melted butter and vanilla. Finally, stir in the pecans. Pour the mixture into the pie shell.

2. Bake at 350 degrees for 45 to 50 minutes. Cool for a half hour or more before serving.


La Provence With Chef Rene: Early Report

Holly writes: If you've not been to La Provence since Chef Rene arrived--run, don't walk! We had a party of four on Friday evening and it truly was remarkable; the food was as good or better than dinners we've had in France.
 
Several memorable items:
  • Pate/rillettes assortment
  • Bourgogne-type salad with lardons and poached egg
  • Bouillabaise
  • Rabbit
The dining room was filled and well served by all, including Rebecca, who introduced herself as the new manager but had been with Rene at Rene Bistro for several years. And lagniappe to a great evening: Ronnie Kole played for at least ninety minutes in the bar. We're told he comes by often when he's in town. We had a lovely time chatting with Rene; he's very witty and God knows, talented.


Ask or tell about restaurants, cooking, drinking, or anything else about food, and read the questions and comments of Tom Fitzmorris and others.
Cooking and Recipe Questions.
Restaurant Questions and Comments.
To ask a question or give a report, click here.


Food Web Link Of The Day

Fast Food Restaurant Bans Becoming More Common. A number of communities, ranging from as big as Los Angeles to small towns in Maine, are restricting the number of fast-food restaurants that they'll allow. Sounds good to me. Anybody in Covington, Metairie, or Uptown want to take up this crusade. We'd thank you. Click here for details.

For all past Food Links, click here.


Back To The Wall
The continuing story of a man, a woman, and the restaurant they love.
Click here for all previous episodes.

Book One, Page 121
Creating Improbability.

Winifred rehashed her actions the night her house burned down for the benefit of her new attorney, Alice Stirwahl. The trip to the Gulf Coast, the stop at the casino, the dinner paid for with cash from good luck in the casino, the trip back. All alone. No paper trail at all--except for one single purchase of gas. She didn't get a receipt, but it was on her American Express statement. Unfortunately, the statement didn't give a time. Indeed, it didn't even come through on the same day Winifred was in Gulfport, and the only thing good about this was that the date it did show was the one on which Winifred was in Central Lockup.

"Okay, that angle won't be strong," Alice said. "Let's come at it from a different direction. Can you be completely honest and tell me what possible reason there might be for you to burn your house down? And I don't mean just things that make sense, but some conclusions that someone who didn't know you might jump to if they were reading about it in, let's say, the National Enquirer."

Winifred twisted her face up and considered this. "A lot of people think I'm nutty," she said. "But people who know me well know better. One of my teachers writes me a letter every year at Thanksgiving, telling me I was her favorite student of all time, because I do great things that would embarrass most people."

"Okay," Alice said. "What else? Have you ever been in trouble before? Any pranks in school that somebody would still be upset about?"

"I rolled a house once. But nobody knew it was me. And that was when I was about twelve. I was a ball of fire then."

"Seems to me you're still a ball of fire."

Winifred saw that the trend of a smile was growing on Alice's face as she said that, as if she were imagining a scenario. "So what do you think of me? Do I seem like a firebug or anything remotely as weird as that?"

Alice's smile continued to grow. "I've heard about the way you cook," she said. "Flames everywhere, I hear."

"That's what customers like to see from an open kitchen." Winifred said. "They're afraid of trying that at home, but in a commercial kitchen it's no big deal. Do you cook?"

"Oh, I can cook when I want to," Alice said, he smile now taking on a hungry look, her teeth bared. She took her glasses off and looked right into Winifred's eyes for two or three quiet seconds. Then she put the glasses back on and looked down at her legal pad. "Listen. There's one important issue. How much do you owe on your house, and how much is in insured for?"

That wasn't what Winifred expected to hear based on Alice's body language, and she hesitated before answering. "I don't owe anything on it," she said. "It was my mother's, and paid up. I'm the sole heir. I don't know how much insurance is one it. All the papers were in the house when it burned."

"Has it gone through probate yet?"

"There hasn't been time," she said. "In fact, I've done nothing about any of that since my mother died."

Alice closed her notepad. "Well, then. You need me for more than just this arson rap. I think your not knowing about the succession and the insurance will work in your favor. If you like, I have a guy who can look all this up for you."

"How can I say no?"

"I hope you don't!" Alice said, as she waved her hand for more coffee.

To Be Continued.


I hope you have a great New Orleans meal today!

Tastefully yours,


Tom Fitzmorris

New Orleans Menu
Reporting On New Orleans Eating and Drinking Since 1977
Monday, October 29, 2007
© 2007 Tom Fitzmorris. All rights reserved.
 
news@nomenu.com

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