Last Updated on Sunday, 29 May 2011 21:19

Restaurants - Seafood Restaurants

Fury's

Metairie: 724 Martin Behrman Ave. 504-834-5646. Map.
Casual
AE DC DS MC V

WHY IT'S NOTEWORTHY
Metairie has few old-school neighborhood restaurants, and fewer West End-style seafood joints. This place serves both those functions, and does so with unusually high standards--especially considering what it charges.

WHAT'S GOOD
Serving terrific simple seafood dishes is a straightforward matter: the seafood has to be fresh, not frozen, and it must be cooked to order, not picked from under a heat lamp. In a time when most places fail on both counts, Fury's is scrupulous about both. They also have fine daily plate specials, some of the city's best onion rings, and even a smattering of excellent Italian dishes.

BACKSTORY
John Fury opened this place in 1983, after selling his share of The Bounty, a classic West End seafood restaurant. Before even that, he operated a neighborhood restaurant in Mid-City. The current Fury's has aspects of both styles. Trivia: A million years ago, the building was the home of The Little Italians restaurant. The son of one of the little Italians that ran it is Tommy DiGiovanni, the longtime executive chef of Arnaud's.

DINING ROOM
A very small restaurant with minimal decor. The L-shaped room is almost always full at standard mealtimes, but they remain open all afternoon, when it's less frantic.

ESSENTIAL MENU
Starters
»Onion rings
»Shrimp or crabmeat remoulade
»Seafood gumbo
Entrees
Crabmeat au gratin
»Crawfish etouffee
»Whole fried or broiled flounder
Fried or broiled seafood platters
»Trout amandine
Fried soft shell crab
»Stuffed crab or shrimp
Fried frog legs
»Fried or broiled chicken
»Chicken or veal Parmesan
»Spaghetti bordelaise
Stuffed bell pepper
»Red beans and rice with thicken wings (Monday special)
»Liver and onions (Tuesday special)
Stuffed pork chop (Wednesday special)
Desserts
»Bread pudding

FOR BEST RESULTS
The restaurant is open all day, from 11 a.m. From about two until five in the afternoon is the best time. If the little parking lot in front is full, it's okay to park across the street in the large strip mall lot. If you happen to be there on Monday, get the red beans and rice with fried chicken drummettes.

OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
A bigger restaurant would be welcome.

FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.

• Dining Environment
• Consistency +2
• Service
• Value +1
• Attitude +1
• Wine and Bar
• Hipness -1
• Local Color +1

SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES

• Open all afternoon
• Quick, good meal
• Good for children
• Easy, nearby parking
• No reservations