Last Updated on Thursday, 09 December 2010 12:34

Restaurants - Contemporary Creole

Nola

French Quarter: 534 St Louis. 504-522-6652. Map.
Nice Casual
AE DC DS MC V
Website

WHY IT'S NOTEWORTHY
NOLA is Emeril Lagasse's most casual restaurant, at least in New Orleans. In recent years it's evolved into Emeril's Greatest Hits Cafe. There's nothing wrong with that, and it likely appeals tremendously to the many visitors that wander into the superb location. NOLA has created more than a few of its own specialties, too.

WHY IT'S GOOD
Although the prices here are a shade lower than at Emeril's other two New Orleans establishments, all the bedrock standards that brought the chef his fame are in force. The kitchen exploits fresh local product, making everything in house, maintaining a full pastry kitchen, and collecting an impressive stock of wines. The service staff is sharp without being formal.

BACKSTORY
"NOLA" is familiar to all New Orleanians as shorthand for "New Orleans, Louisiana." It was Emeril's second restaurant, opened a couple of years after his flagship a mile away. It took over a space built out as a very hip Italian restaurant called Spunto, and took full advantage of the edgy decor while adding more of it. It has historically been the place where his organization brings up new chefs, managers, and dishes.

DINING ROOM
Many come to NOLA looking for a glimpse of the superstar chef; they probably won't get one, but the wait staff is happy to tell the visitors all about him. The restaurant occupies three floors, the bottom one sporting an open kitchen and its popular food bar. There you sit right in front of the wood-burning oven and grill, and watch the food as it's cooked. The tables on the first and second floors can look at each other over the atrium-like fore part of the restaurant. The third floor is a private dining space with a very cool bar.

ESSENTIAL MENU
starters
»Miss Hay’s stuffed chicken wings
»Baked oysters, garlic butter, herb bread crumbs
»Duck confit and fried egg pizza
Crab cake, Crystal-butter sauce,
»Barbecue shrimp with rosemary biscuit
Wood oven roasted pocket bread, garlic oil, basil, parmesan
»Black mussels, garlic-chardonnay broth
»Crispy duck liver, greens, Creole mustard aioli
Roasted garlic-parmesan bisque, basil pesto
»Gumbo of the day
Baby frisée, raspberry vinaigrette, duck confit, pecans, goat cheese
Jumbo lump crab and celery root salad
»Roasted beets, spiced walnuts, arugula and balsamic vinaigrette
Limoncello-cured salmon with arugula, fennel
Nola Caesar
Entrees
»Hickory-roasted duck, whiskey-caramel glaze
Shrimp and smoked cheddar grits, bacon, crimini mushrooms, red chili-beer butter
Buttermilk fried breast of chicken, bourbon mashed sweet potatoes
»Grilled seasonal fish with risotto, fennel herb salad, almonds
»Grilled pork chop, brown sugar glazed sweet potatoes
»Filet mignon, house-cured bacon, Maytag blue cheese, port-veal glacé
Braised beef short ribs, white bean pot-au-feu
Grilled rib eye, mashed potatoes, worcestershire
»Wood-roasted garlic crusted drumfish, bacon and sauce beurre rouge
Sweet barbecue salmon with Creole maque choux, tarragon aioli
Desserts
»Cinnamon pain perdu, sautéed bananas, brown sugar bacon
Nola banana pudding layer cake
»Chocolate crème caramel, Grand Marnier sabayon
Warm ooey gooey cake
»Crème brûlée trio
»Chocolate bourbon pecan pie with sweet potato ice cream
Homemade ice creams and sorbets

FOR BEST RESULTS
Emeril's people very much appreciate locals, so be sure to let them know you are if you are. Leave room for dessert, a very strong course here.

OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
One of the best and most innovative dishes here--the fish roasted on a cedar plank--is overdue for a return to the menu.

FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.

• Dining Environment +2
• Consistency +1
• Service +2
• Value -1
• Attitude +2
• Wine and Bar +2
• Hipness +2
• Local Color +2

SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES

• Romantic
• Good for business meetings
• Small private room
• Open Sunday dinner
• Open Monday dinner
• Good for children
• Free valet parking
• Reservations honored promptly