Last Updated on Friday, 21 December 2012 12:29

Restaurants - Contemporary Creole

Gallagher's Grill

Covington: 509 S Tyler. 985-892-9992. Map.
Nice Casual.
AE DC DS MC V
Website

WHY IT'S NOTEWORTHY
The North Shore dining scene seems to be missing something when Pat Gallagher doesn't have an active restaurant. When he returns from his furloughs, he attracts an enormous crowd of regulars, all of whom are ecstatic to learn that Pat has not been infected by current culinary trends, and is still putting out the contemporary Creole dishes that established his work as delicious. This one is all that, in a very pleasant bistro environment with a patio and a good bar.

WHAT'S GOOD
Nothing in Gallagher's repertoire is even slightly unfamiliar to New Orleans diners. He makes it all exciting by purchasing excellent beef (Prime), lamb chops, quail (local), and the full panoply of Louisiana seafood. The restaurant cooks more different kinds of fish than most. You are more likely to find pompano, lemonfish, and speckled trout than anywhere else north of the lake. He uses bubbling butter and rich sauces flagrantly and deliciously. Always here but not on the menu: a combination platter of quail and lamb (below) that's hard to beat.

BACKSTORY
Pat Gallagher's following has to be very avid to keep up with him. The son of a revered Covington sports coach, he opened the Winner's Circle--his first restaurant--in Folsom, in the 1980s. It made him famous on the North Shore. He shut it down and reopened in a new location, where Dakota is now. Disappear, reappear--this time in the old Forest Steakhouse in Covington. While there he opened Annadele Plantation, but after a year or two was gone again. Next post was as executive chef of Ruth's Chris in Metairie. Now this restaurant, opened in late 2009. It occupies a property space where many eateries have come and gone. Only one other (Chef Claude Aubert's Le Bec Fin in 1985) was anywhere near as good or as handsome as Gallagher's Grill. And there we are, for now.

DINING ROOM
The main dining room, with its brick floor and rarely-used fireplace continues the rusticity of this older part of Covington. Interesting art pieces in metal and glass give a sophistication to the all of the dining rooms. Past the bar is a small courtyard for sipping anytime or dining on nice, busy days. The service staff in the evening is young, friendly and knowledgeable. Lunch service is a little less smooth.

ESSENTIAL DISHES
Starters
»Shrimp remoulade, deviled egg
Crab cake, chipotle aioli
»Crabmeat ravigote, caper horseradish dressing
»Oysters en brochette, meuniere sauce
»Crabmeat au gratin
»Barbecue shrimp and grits
»Fried calamari, chili dust, smoked tomato-jalapeno tartar sauce, thai chili sauce
Barbecue spare ribs
Seafood gumbo, andouille
Creole turtle soup
House salad
»Caesar salad
Spinach salad
»Tomato and Vidalia onion salad
Stuffed tomato salad
Portobello and shrimp salad
»Popcorn crawfish salad
Fried shrimp salad

Entrees
»Prime 16-oz ribeye
»Filet mignon (large or small)
»Stuffed chicken breast, cream cheese stuffing
»Charcoal grilled quail
Grilled pork chop, cane syrup glaze
»Grilled lemonfish, grilled shrimp, lemon beurre blanc
Grilled yellowfin tuna, grilled shrimp, soy lime vinaigrette
Grilled shrimp, chimichurri sauce
Barbecue spare ribs
»Pan sauteed Gulf fish of the day
»Gulf fish almondine
»Gulf fish Winner’s Circle
Crabmeat au gratin
Stuffed shrimp
Fried or broiled redfish
»Broiled catfish meuniere
Panko crusted crab cakes

Desserts
»Crème brulee, fresh berries
»White chocolate bread pudding
Flourless chocolate cake

FOR BEST RESULTS
I wouldn't come here on a weekend without a reservation. The steaks and chops are in the top rank. See if you can work a quail somewhere into the meal. The appetizers are good, large, and varied enough that you could make a dinner of them.

OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
Lunch is an extra step down from dinner beyond what you'd expect, but the prices are a bargain.

FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.

• Dining Environment +2
• Consistency +2
• Service +1
• Value
• Attitude +1
• Wine and Bar +1
• Hipness
• Local Color +2

SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES

• Courtyard or deck dining
• Romantic
• Good for business meetings
• Medium private room
• Early-evening specials
• Open some holidays
• Unusually large servings
• Good for children
• Easy, nearby parking
• Reservations accepted

CE NE