Middendorf’s. River Parishes: Exit 15 off I-55, Manchac. 985-386-6666.

Last Updated on Friday, 03 December 2010 16:23

Restaurants - Seafood Restaurants

Middendorf’s

River Parishes: Exit 15 off I-55, Manchac. 985-386-6666. Map.
Casual
AE DS MC V
Website

WHY IT'S NOTEWORTHY
Say the word "catfish," and most avid New Orleans eaters (as well as those between New Orleans and Baton Rouge, and perhaps as far away as Jackson, Mississippi) think of this funny German name. Because it's been Number One for as long as it has, people are always taking shots at the place. But the goodness of its fried seafood can't be denied. It's hard to find anyplace more consistent.

WHY IT'S GOOD
All the seafood here is fresh, and it's all prepared to order. The frying is incomparable: the golden color of the cornmeal crust tells that story. The catfish is served either in small fillets or in the restaurant's signature thin-cut variety. The former is better. Also here is a full array of casual seafood platters, including rarities like whole fried flounder and whole catfish. Among the appetizers are great sleepers--notably the variations on grilled and baked oysters. Lest there by any doubt about the new owners, they kept almost the entire staff and all the old recipes. The same lady who's cut the thin catfish by hand for decades is still there, for example.

BACKSTORY
Middendorf's has a rich history. It's way out in the marshes between Lakes Maurepas and Pontchartrain, just over Pass Manchac, which in the 1700s was the frontier between the United States and the Spanish Isle of Orleans. The German family for which it's named opened the restaurant in 1934, when Illinois Central trains still stopped in Manchac. The family operated and expanded the place as its fame grew, and built an entirely separate new building to handle the crowds. The third generation sold Middendorf's to Chef Horst Pfeifer and his wife Karen, who owned the superb Bella Luna in the French Market until Katrina. Although Katrina damaged Middendorf's only moderately, Hurricane Gustav in 2008 devastated Middendorf's, especially its original building. That allowed for a major restoration of that structure and its kitchen. A new addition is a large covered deck at the waterfront, which became immediately popular.

DINING ROOM
The restaurant has long operated out of two separate buildings. The original is the main restaurant. The Gustav flood forced a to-the-studs restoration that ended with a much nicer-looking environment. The big rooms now have old cypress floors and walls, creating a rustic look that suits the restaurant and its history perfectly. The other building is more utilitarian in design but very welcome on days when the old place is packed. (It also allowed the restaurant to reopen much sooner after Gustav.) The service staff is always been stressed, and while they deliver everything on time, they don't visit the table as much as you might expect.

ESSENTIAL MENU
Starters
»Crab or shrimp gumbo
Turtle soup
Oyster stew
»Shrimp remoulade
Boiled shrimp, crabs, and crawfish in season
»Barbecue oysters
»Italian oysters
Crawfish cakes
Italian salad
Entrees
Entree salad of boiled shrimp topped with catfish croutons
»Fried thick-cut catfish
»Fried thin-cut catfish
»Whole fried catfish
»Broiled barbecue catfish
»Fried seafood platters
»Stuffed crab
Fried or broiled frog legs
»Whole fried or broiled flounder
Fried chicken
Catfish, oyster, shrimp, or soft-shell crab poor boys
Desserts
»Banana bread pudding
»Homemade ice cream

FOR BEST RESULTS
Get the thick fish, not the thin--at least the first time. (The thin fish is very thin indeed, and not for everybody.) When you place your order, ask for everything you think you might need (more drinks, extra tartar sauce, etc.), because you might not be able to get it quickly later. And ignore the buzz about how Middendorf's isn't as good as it used to be. That's what people always say about any new owner's regime. In its essential aspects, it hasn't changed at all.

OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
More service staff on the floor would surprise everyone favorably. An oyster bar would be a great addition.

FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.

• Dining Environment +1
• Consistency +2
• Service
• Value +2
• Attitude +1
• Wine and Bar
• Hipness -1
• Local Color +3

SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES

• Courtyard or deck dining
• Good view
• Good for business meetings
• Many private rooms
• Open Sunday lunch and dinner
• Open some holidays
• Open all afternoon
• Historic
• Oyster bar
• Unusually large servings
• Good for children
• Easy, nearby parking
• No reservations