By Tom Fitzmorris Originally published November 12, 2007 Truffle Festival Returns To Bacco Truffles are the world's most expensive, most mysterious, and sexiest food. So it's maddening that the past few years have been terrible for the truffle harvest. The hot and dry weather in Italy has kept the truffles small, rare, and less good than usual. And, perversely, even more expensive than usual. They are have been as high as $4000 a pound recently. (This is not helped by a trade-war-inspired 100 percent American tariff on certain European luxury goods, of which this is certainly one.) But Here's a little good news. The price is coming down. Italy finally got a little rain, and truffles mature fast when the moisture of the soil goes up. The New Orleans restaurant that has almost made white truffles a trademark is Bacco, Ralph Brennan's Italian trattoria in the French Quarter. He's made such a big deal out of truffles that you can hardly think of them without thinking of the restaurant. It's been years since the month-long, four-course truffle festivals that created this legend have been able to return. But Bacco does have something for truffle lovers. It started yesterday, and will run through the end of the month. Back to bad news: shaved Alba white truffles--the greatest prize of all--appear in only one course. That's a veal scaloppine with wild mushroom confit, jumbo lump crabmeat, and Brunello veal demi-glace. That's the third course in a five-course menu that begins with a quail eggs with gorgonzola polenta and crisp prosciutto. It moves to a cold-smoked sea scallop with Creole tomato and Vidalia onion marmalade with a sprout salad touched by a truffled honey vineaigrette. Then gnocchi with Bourbon-scented brown butter and toasted pecans. After the scaloppine with the white truffles is a chestnut crepe for dessert. Wines are paired all the way through. I'm sorry to say that I don't have the price information in the dinner. But I think it's safe to say that it's near or over $100. Call Bacco for details and reservations at the number below. Bacco, 310 Chartres. 504-522-2426. © 2007 Tom Fitzmorris. All rights reserved. news@nomenu.com |