Balsamic vinegar, a specialty of the region around Modena in
Italy, is a vinegar aged in wood barrels. . . but there's a bit more to
it than that. The vinegar is made from grape juice affected by an
enzyme that transforms it into vinegar without first changing into
wine. The resulting vinegar is then aged long enough to gain a dark
brown color. In its best forms, the vinegar stays in the barrels for
decades. Century-old balsamic vinegar is not unheard of; for obvious
reasons, it's very expensive.
But wait a minute. A hundred years this stuff is aged? Why would anyone
hold onto vinegar for a hundred years? The clue is in the word
"balsamic," a reference to medicinal qualities which, it was once
believed, the stuff possessed. (Although it's said that the first
balsamic vinegar was made by mistake, when a barrel of grape juice was
forgotten for decades in a cave.)
The first time I ever heard of balsamic vinegar in New Orleans was in
the early 1980s, the time when the first major wave of innovative chefs
swept through our town opening restaurants. Its use ballooned in the
following years, and now it's harder to find a restaurant that doesn't
use it than one that does.
You can also buy balsamic vinegar almost everywhere, and at
unfrightening prices. Most of what is sold under the name now is not
aged very long, and sometimes gets its color from additives. Even these
are better than the cheap vinegars that used to dominate the scene even
in the great places.
But some restaurants use very good balsamic vinegar. You can spot the
good stuff because it becomes as thick as syrup, is not especially
acidic, and needs to be used not by the spoonful but by the drop. It's
a delicious, mouth-watering elixir.