Archived Article By Tom Fitzmorris
Originally published July 9, 2009
Harahan's Oldest Restaurant Is Back
Charles Sea Foods Reopens Under Brigtsens' Management
As we reported some months ago, Frank and Marna Brigtsen bought Charles Sea Foods on Jefferson Highway in Harahan, which has been closed for the past couple of years. The old cafe--which everyone call's Charlie's--was a favorite eatery for Frank when he grew up in the neighborhood, and he thought it should be revived. For the past few days, it has been. Here's a report from one of our readers who's been there already:
We had
lunch yesterday at Charlie's Seafood. Frank and Marna Brightsen were
both there, Marna out front and Frank was expediting in the kitchen.
We had crabmeat Parmesian au gratin and shrimp bisque to start. Both were excellent versions. The bisque has a really rich, brown roux. This is not the same as the butternut shrimp bisque at Brigtsen's. The crabmeat dish was mostly crabmeat. The cheese was there, but it was far from overwhelming the crabmeat.
Main courses were grilled Gulf fish and fried catfish with grits. I only allowed a taste of the fish, but it was quite good and reminded me of "bronzed" fish I have had elsewhere. The catfish were perfectly fried and piping hot.
Even with no advertising or other notice of the restaurant's being open, almost every table in the front room was occupied with walk-ins by the time we left. Obviously there is a latent need for this kind of place in that part of town.
The
fact that its busy right away doesn't surprise me. Charlie's is the
Antoine's of Harahan, having been there as long as anyone can
remember--I remember it from the 1960s--in a town with very few
restaurants. Frank told me it wasn't going to be another Brigtsen's,
but what Charlie's always was: a great place for basic local seafood,
fried platters, poor boys, and the like. We had crabmeat Parmesian au gratin and shrimp bisque to start. Both were excellent versions. The bisque has a really rich, brown roux. This is not the same as the butternut shrimp bisque at Brigtsen's. The crabmeat dish was mostly crabmeat. The cheese was there, but it was far from overwhelming the crabmeat.
Main courses were grilled Gulf fish and fried catfish with grits. I only allowed a taste of the fish, but it was quite good and reminded me of "bronzed" fish I have had elsewhere. The catfish were perfectly fried and piping hot.
Even with no advertising or other notice of the restaurant's being open, almost every table in the front room was occupied with walk-ins by the time we left. Obviously there is a latent need for this kind of place in that part of town.
Charlie's Seafood. Harahan: 8311 Jefferson Hwy. 504-305-2720. Seafood. Sandwiches.
© 2009 Tom Fitzmorris. All rights reserved. news@nomenu.com