Archived Article By Tom Fitzmorris Originally published October 24, 2006 Click here for the current edition Emeril's Delmonico Reopens The hurricane-aftermath story of Delmonico is a lot like the one you've read about Commander's Palace. It didn't look as if there were a lot wrong with the old building, but as soon as they tried to repair the few visible problems, they found much bigger ones, and bigger ones still behind those. Odd coincidence: Emile Commander was involved with both restaurants in their earliest days. (Commander's opened around 1880; Delmonico in 1895.) But the job is done, and what I think of as Emeril Lagasse's best restaurant here returned yesterday, Wednesday, October 25. As at Commander's, a great deal of renovation has been done in the process of taking everything apart and putting it back together again. However, my peeks through the windows over the past few days tell me that Delmonico hasn't changed quite as drastically. (Although I hear the upstairs dining rooms are totally different.) Emeril kept most of the staff together by posting them at Emeril's and Nola, where they were badly needed anyway. Shane Pritchett is chef de cuisine, resuming the terrific track record he's set since 2003. Saleen Nawaz is the general manager (he was named to the position right before the storm hit). Russ Bergeron will run the wine cellar. Delmonico lost its entire cellar, but it does have Emeril's central wine cellar to draw upon, and most of that was saved. I haven't seen the menu, but the style of doing contemporary versions of classic haute-Creole food is still in place. I can't wait until the place shakes down and I can go there in three or four months. But it will be pretty busy starting today; it was one of the best-liked restaurants in town. They'll start off by opening for dinner only, Tuesday through Saturday. Valet parking and all the other amenities are still there. Delmonico. 1300 St. Charles Ave., 504-525-4937. © 2006 Tom Fitzmorris. All rights reserved. news@nomenu.com