Archived Article By Tom Fitzmorris Originally published July 13, 2007 French Fries Fried potatoes are among the greatest culinary creations of all time. Even when they're badly made, they're tempting. When well made, they're utterly irresistible. In the early years of their existence--the 1700s--they were the food of kings. Some of the greatest chefs and restaurateurs brag about their fries as much as about anything. For example, Ray Kroc, who built McDonald's into what it is, always said that his fries were the best things on the menu, and gave them an inordinate amount of attention. Fries are no longer receiving that kind of care at McDonald's, or many other places, either. The big problem with most French fries is that almost all of them are frozen, pre-blanched potatoes, treated with batter or flavorings to force them into crispness and and flavorfulness. That has to be done, because most French fries are fried in advance. The fries may be wonderful as they come out of the fryer, but unless something is done they become limp or dry a few minutes later. Problem: what's done to frozen fries to prevent this keeps them from tasting like potatoes. So why don't they just use fresh potatoes? It can be done. Until the mid-1960s, McDonald's did--and nobody moves more fries than they do. But fresh-cut fries require a lot of work, and if there's one thing a chain resrtaurant doesn't want to do it's to rely in the skill of its employees. I understand why fast food restaurants serve frozen potatoes. It doesn't affect me, because I don't eat in them. But why should seafood restaurants, neighborhood cafes, and even some uppity, expensive bistros serve frozen fries? I'll tell you why. It's because you're so accustomed to eating the convenient version of fries that you'll probably look askance at potatoes done the right way. And that's because most restaurants don't know how to do fresh fries without winding up with excesses of grease. But the technique is simple. To make great French fries, all you have to do is fry them twice. That way they not only have that great potato flavor, but they're crisp as well. There's only one problem: after the first frying, they're really ready to eat, and some people can't resist. So there they go. I know that when we make fries at my house--which we do often--they're eaten as quickly as they're fried. We have so few restaurants serving good French fries that I could come close to giving you the entire list of them with a top ten list. Which is below. Also in today's Menu Daily is a detailed recipe for making great French fries from scratch. © 2007 Tom Fitzmorris. All rights reserved. news@nomenu.com