Archived Article By Tom Fitzmorris
Originally published November 14, 2006
Click here for the current edition
Guacamole
The name "guacamole" comes ultimately from the language of the aboriginal Mexicans, who were eating it long before the arrival of the Spanish. It translates as "avocado sauce," which is, of course, exactly what it is.
Although guacamole carries with it a sort of secret-recipe cachet, in fact it's easy to make. The key to it, I believe, is in limiting the recipe for the most part to ingredients that the Aztecs would have used--not because of any thrall to original recipes, but because the originators seem to have had it down cold.
So we're talking about native American plants: avocados, chile peppers, cilantro, onions, and tomatoes. No dairy products (including cheese), no black pepper. Two ingredients of non-Aztec origin that seem helpful are olive oil and lime juice, both used in small proportions and mainly to keep the concoction from spoiling too fast.
I've encountered a great deal of guacamole in restaurants lately, and most of it has been good. That's a hopeful sign, because most guacamole in most restaurants historically has been pretty bad. That's because there is no good way to buy good ready-made guacamole, or even to make it much in advance. (Although the chains and their suppliers certainly give it the college try.)
I very much like the trend in some restaurants--notably Coayoacan and Sun Ray Grill--to make guacamole to order, at the table.
The only serious barricade to making good guacamole is the frequent non-availability of excellent, ripe avocados. If I can only get Florida avocados or stone-hard, green Hass avocados, the dish is off the table.
All modesty aside, I would be remiss in not noting that I make as good a guacamole as I've ever had. My gusts like it so much that they expect to find it when they come over, even for Thanksgiving. Recipe below.
© 2006 Tom Fitzmorris. All rights reserved. news@nomenu.com