Archived Article By Tom Fitzmorris Originally published March 27, 2006 Click here for the current edition Leah Chase's Holy Thursday Gumbo z'Herbes At Muriel's A couple of days ago I ran into Leah Chase, one of the seminal figures in New Orleans Creole cooking, at the Bon Ton. "Do you know this man at Muriel's?" she asked. "I can't believe what a wonderful person he is and what he is doing for me! I don't even know him!" Rick Gratia (the managing partner of Muriel's on Jackson Square) heard that Dooky Chase's, which was well into the deep-water zone during the flood, is struggling to get back open. Dooky's is the leading Creole-soul restaurant in New Orleans, and one of its most treasured traditions is serving gumbo z'herbes--the green gumbo of Lent--on Holy Thursday every year. It's so popular that people line up to get it every year, and Leah has a big mailing list of all the people who come for the unique Creole dish every year. But, it seemed, not this year. Rick (who is also the chairman of the New Orleans Wine and Food Experience this year) stepped into this breach. On Holy Thursday, you can go to Muriel's and get Leah Chase's gumbo z'herbes, along with fried chicken and bread pudding. Wines will be served, too, and good ones: Caymus, Ravenswood, Sequoia Grove, Simi, and Perrier-Jouet. All the proceeds go to the rebuilding of Dooky Chase's Restaurant. The price begins at $75 a person. If you're interested in upping the ante, there are other packages with posters, invitations to opening night at Dooky's, and other boons. "Of course, Dooky's is an essential part of the New Orleans food scene," Rick told me. "John Folse is helping us out with cooking the gumbo, and we're getting a lot of other help. Everybody loves Leah. She's 83 years old, and still an amazing woman with unbelievable energy." "I owe a debt to my community," Leah said. "I have to get back open. We can't wait to be back. Everybody wants us back, and so I have to keep on working." This will no doubt sell out. For a reservation, call Muriel's at 504-568-9021. I will see you there! © 2006 Tom Fitzmorris. All rights reserved. news@nomenu.com