New Orleans Menu DailyArchived Article
By Tom Fitzmorris
Originally published June , 2007

Li'l Dizzy's Opens In Whitney--With Big Kevin

Some years ago, my April Fool restaurant review dreamed up a restaurant that served in one of those grand old bank lobbies--with the bank still operating. A few months later, that idea actually came to pass, in the Whitney Bank's beautiful, brass-and-marble branch on the corner of Camp and Poydras. That former office building had been converted into the Whitney Wyndham Hotel, and it needed a restaurant.

As handsome a space as the dining room is, it has undone two restaurants so far: first 56 Degrees, followed by a branch of the Steak Knife. What will open there next week, however, may break the jinx.

It's the second location of Li'l Dizzy's, the modest breakfast-and-lunch cafe that Wayne Baquet opened on Esplanade Avenue after he closed Zachary's Uptown. Baquet is the son of Eddie Baquet, who for decades ran Eddie's, one of America's most famous soul food restaurants, on Law Street in Gentilly.

What will make this place happen, however, is Bacquet's partner in this new restaurant. Kevin Belton has been for many years the star teacher at the New Orleans School of Cooking, with a jazzy style that keeps everybody smiling. He has enough personality that he's had a television show at times.

Big Kevin, as he's widely known, is a major physical presence. Very tall and wide, he takes over a room with his style and his smile. And his enthusiastic belief in New Orleans home cooking. That's what Li'l Dizzy's will serve: fried chicken, gumbo, pork chops, grilled fish Baquet, red beans and rice, and straightforward breakfasts.

Baquet says he was looking to duplicate his Li'l Dizzy's--whose logo depicts balloon-cheeked Dizzy Gillespie blowing his unique bent trumpet. "We saw an opportunity for an affordable, sit-down restaurant in the CBD, where people canget served quickly to accommodate lunch breaks, or have a leisurely breakfast or lunch."

Breakfast and lunch will be the whole program. Dinner service in the CBD has a long history of disappointing results, even when the food was excellent. So they're not even going to try, at least not for now. They will, however, have Sunday brunch.



© 2007 Tom Fitzmorris. All rights reserved. news@nomenu.com