Archived Article By Tom Fitzmorris Originally published May 1, 2007 French Bistro In Former Cobalt Space John Besh Opens Luke On St. Charles Ave. Chef John Besh, having just reopened La Provence in Lacombe a few weeks ago, opened his fourth local restaurant last night (Tuesday, May 1). It's named Luke (for his son), but the press release has it as Lüke, with the umlaut. The reason for this is that although the menu is that of a classic French brasserie, they're trying to put you in the mind of the atmosphere of Kolb's. Dark wood walls, stained glass windows looking into the wine cellar. . . and a system of leather-belt-driven ceiling fans revisit the look of restaurant from a hundred years ago. That alone will attract some patrons--as if the reputation of the chef were'nt already enough. I have the menu here (of course, I won't be going for some time). It begins with an unusually large selection of raw shellfish: “Le Plateau” de Fruits de Mer (Lobster, crab, oysters, shrimp, prawns, langoustines, mussels, clams) For 2 people 40.00. . . For 4 people 75.00 “Le Plateau” of P & J Oysters Medium dozen 14.00. . . Large dozen 12.00 [I think this is a mistake] “Le Plateau” of Belon Oysters Petites dozen 21.00. . . Medium dozen 23.00 “Le Plateau”of Hog Island Oysters Medium dozen 18.00 “Le Plateau” of  Jumbo Louisiana Shrimp 10.00 “Le Plateau” of Prince Edward Island Mussels Raw on the half shell or lightly cooked 8.00 “Le Plateau” of Nantucket Bay Little Neck Clams Raw on the half shell or lightly cooked 11.00 Entrées Fraîcheur Pâté de Champagne of Texas wild boar Watermelon pickles, mustard and gelée 8.00 Pâté of Louisiana rabbit and duck livers Perfumed with truffle, country bread croutons 7.00 Rillette of Berkshire Pork Savory marmalades  and grilled country bread 9.00 Terrine of Slow Cooked Foie Gras Toasted brioche and sea salt 18.00 Salad of Chicory Allen Benton’s bacon, Croutons and soft poached yard egg, with Créole mustard and tarragon 9.00 Salad Fraîcheur Local organic greens, cucumbers, carrots, beets and local buttermilk dressing 10.00 Bittersweet Goat Cheese Salad Mâche leaves tossed with country ham and Croutons 12.00 Crabmeat Maison With fresh herbs, local greens and country bread croutons 13.00 Entrées Chauds Pied de Cochon “croustillant”, Sauce Gribiche 7.00 Fresh Escargots Broiled with garlic, butter  and parsley 14.00 Fricassée of Frog Legs and Porcini Mushrooms 10.00 Grilled Boudin Noir Sauté of potatoes, apples and onions 8.00 Crab Meat au gratin 12.00 Warm Onion Tarte  á L’Alsacienne 7.00 Poissons Louisiana Speckled Trout Meunière 19.00 Louisiana Speckled Trout Almandine 21.00 Shrimp Farci Hollandaise, crab meat, shrimp and crawfish 15.00 Redfish “Court Bouillon” Crab, shrimp, oysters and rice 23.00 Bouride of monkfish Potatoes with aioli 20.00 Ravioli of Local Crab Meat With garlic, cream and Meyer lemon 24.00 Jumbo Louisiana Shrimp “en cocotte” Creamy Anson Mills cream white corn polenta with Jacobs Andouille 21.00 Viandes Entrecôte Grillée au Frites With Maître d’Hôtel Butter or Sauce Bearnaise 24.00 Grilled Flank “Steak au Frites” With Maître d’Hôtel Butter or Sauce Bearnaise 20.00 Blanquette of Local Veal Cheeks and Wild Mushrooms With potato gnocchi 25.00 Filet of Beef with Gratin Dauphinois, Smoked marrow butter and oxtail jus 34.00 Spécialités Choucroûte Maison House-made sausages and slow cooked Berkshire pork belly and knuckles 25.00 Croque Monsieur et Frites 12.00 Croque Madame et Frites 14.00 Moules et Frites Prince Edward Island Mussels steamed with shallots and vermouth with house-made fries 18.00 Whole Roast “Cochon de Lait” with  cherry mustard and whipped potatoes 20.00 Slow Cooked Beef Brisket With horseradish ravigote sauce 16.00 “Poulet Grand Mère” Herb roast local chicken, jus naturel and whipped potatoes 21.00 Luke. 333 St. Charles Ave. 592-0681. © 2007 Tom Fitzmorris. All rights reserved. news@nomenu.com