Archived Article By Tom Fitzmorris Originally published April 16, 2007 Mr. B's Reopens After a reconstruction whose length puzzled even other members of the Brennan family, Mr. B's Bistro reopens today, Monday, April 16. A dry run for friends and employees will take place over the weekend. The historic building (it was once the home of Solari's, one of the most famous New Orleans food emporiums of all time) didn't have any direct flooding from the street. However, ground water came up through the sump pumps in the basement, which housed the offices, storage, and bathrooms of the restaurant. Worse still was what happened when water broke through the parking garage on the upper levels of the building. A veritable waterfall came down on the kitchen, and the water flowed around the entire restaurant, buckling the wood floors and ruining absolutely everything. Except, perhaps, for the teeny marble-topped tables. Last time I looked inside, I saw them still in there. But we can hope they've been replaced. Mr. B's is owned by Cindy Davis, daughter of John Brennan and sister of Ralph and Lally Brennan. Those siblings were rather young when they started working at Mr. B's, which they did practically from opening day in 1979. The restaurant was, however, largely the idea of Ella Brennan, who always wanted to have a casual French-bistro-style restaurant with good food but without formality. With the help of Paul Prudhomme--the lead chef for the Brennans in those days--Mr. B's not only was itself a phenomenon, but was the local prototype for what is now the dominant kind of restaurant in New Orleans today. I think that it's one of the most important restaurant in the history of New Orleans dining because of that influence. Mr. B's has the best versions around of three of my favorite dishes: chicken-andouilel gumbo ("gumbo ya-ya," they call it), barbecue shrimp, and bread pudding (incomparably light). The reopening of Mr. B's leaves very few major restaurants still in limbo. They include Christian's (opening uncertain), Dooky Chase (a few weeks), and Tony Angello's (a week or two). Then we can say we'll be whole again. Mr. B's return is a big one. They'll open for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday, with Sunday hours to return later. Mr. B’s. 201 Royal. 523-2078. © 2007 Tom Fitzmorris. All rights reserved. news@nomenu.com |