Shrimp remoulade.

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Angels on Horseback

This is such a simple dish it almost doesn't require a recipe, but enough people ask me about it that here it is. This is the perfect time of year to make this little pass-around appetizer, because the oysters are exceptionally meaty right now. In the days of Dickens, grand feasts would end with what was called the "savory"—a single bite of something smoky and salty. This dish is the classic savory course--especially when the meal began with oysters.

1. Stretch the bacon slices out on a rack atop a baking pan and put it about four inches under the broiler at 550 degrees. Broil for about two minutes, until the fat in the bacon begins to turn opaque and some of the fat has been rendered out. Remove and drain the bacon. Leave the broiler on.

2. Cut each slice of bacon in half. Wrap a half-slice of bacon around each oyster, and attach with a toothpick. Place the oysters on the rack under the broiler and broil for about two minutes, turning once, until the edges of the bacon begin to crisp.

Serves four to six appetizers or twelve savories.