Shrimp remoulade.

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Tom Fitzmorris's New Orleans Food

Now in its eighth printing, here are the best dishes we're eating today in New Orleans, with clear, well-tested recipes you and your friends will love.

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Bananas Foster

This creation of Brennan's is found in fancy restaurants across New Orleans, and far beyond. Chef Paul Blange developed it because the Brennans had close friends in the banana business. It was named for Richard Foster, the owner of an awning company and a Brennan's regular. Although the dessert is classically prepared and flamed at the table, there's no reason it can't be done in the kitchen. This is one flaming dessert in which the flavor is much better than the show. My recipe is influenced by the way they do it at Arnaud's, which puts out the most exciting version.

1. Melt sugar and butter over medium heat in a large flat pan, stirring frequently.

2. Peel the bananas and slice them in quarters--first lengthwise, then across.

3. When the sugar and butter have melted together and begun to bubble, add the bananas and sauté until tender. Add banana liqueur and sprinkle with cinnamon

4. Add the rum and touch off a flame in the pan (if you like, and if you're prepared for the possibility of a flare-up). Carefully spoon sauce over bananas until flame burns out.

5. Serve immediately over ice cream with lots of sauce.

Serves four.