From A Past Edition Of The New Orleans Menu Daily By Tom Fitzmorris Bouchees Bienville No place has a perfect cuisine, and no occasion reveals the local imperfections like a wedding reception. At wedding receptions around New Orleans, it is almost a certainty that you will encounter a terrible dish (and I can hear the protests rising already) called "oyster patties." These are oyster glop in a small vol-au-vent pastry called a patty shell, famous as a specialty at the now-extinct McKenzie's Bakery, a leading vendor of forgettable edibles. I offer this dish as a replacement for oyster patties. Those who take my advice will be happy to leave that old tradition behind for this better new one. It's a take on oysters Bienville, but without the oysters, and puff pastry in place of shells. 1 stick butter 2/3 cup flour 3/4 cup hot milk 4 oz. shredded Morbier or Gruyere cheese 8 oz. smoky, lean sliced ham, chopped coarsely 1 cup shiitake mushrooms, chopped coarsely 1/2 cup dry white wine (I recommend French Gewurztraminer) 1 cup small shrimp, peeled and deveined 2 oz. brandy 10 sprigs fresh parsley, leaves only, chopped 1/2 tsp. fresh tarragon, if available (otherwise omit) 1/4 tsp. salt Generous pinch cayenne 12 small puff pastry shells 1. Melt the butter over medium-low heat in a saucepan. Stir in the flour to make a blond roux. When you see the first hints of browning, remove from the heat and whisk in the hot milk to form a béchamel. (It will have the texture of mashed potatoes.) 2. Stir the cheese into the hot béchamel and set aside. 3. In a second skillet, heat the ham until it begins to steam, then add the mushrooms and wine. Bring the mixture to a boil and cook until mostly dry. 4. Add the shrimp and cook until they turn pink. Lower the heat, add the brandy, and let it mostly boil away. 5. Stir the shrimp and ham mixture, the parsley, and the tarragon into the béchamel. Add salt and cayenne. 6. Spoon the sauce into the puff pastry shells and place on a baking sheet. Bake the shells in a preheated 400-degree oven for about two minutes, and serve immediately. Serves six. Click here for an index of recipes from past editions. © 2008 Tom Fitzmorris. All rights reserved. news@nomenu.com