Shrimp remoulade.

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Creole Sauce

Classic Creole sauce seems to be making a comeback. It's a tomato-based concoction with the holy trinity (bell pepper, celery, and onions). I find myself using it with all sorts of meats and poultry. It's even good with eggs. (Although not with shrimp. Shrimp Creole is the most famous dish using this sauce, but in my opinion the worst.) My Creole sauce is made with a good bit of black pepper, which I think makes the difference. So does a short cooking time, which keeps it from becoming spaghetti sauce. This recipe makes a lot of it, but it freezes well. So you can jazz up whatever food for which you're at a loss for ideas.

1. Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium-low heat until ti shimmers. Add the bell pepper, white onion, celery, green onions, and garlic, and cook, moving it around with a wooden spoon, for about five minutes.

2. Add all the other ingredients. Cook for about an hour minutes, stirring every few minutes. Remove the bay leaves. Add more salt to taste.

Makes about two quarts.