Shrimp remoulade.

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Pasta Puttanesca

The name is an embarrassing Italian joke. "Puttanesca" means "in the style of the prostitute." Since the ladies of the evening are not known for their prowess in the kitchen, it must be about something else. A look at the ingredients may suggest what was going on in the mind of the man (it was undoubtedly a man) who came up with this name. All this notwithstanding, pasta puttanesca is a marvelous dish for those of us who enjoy big flavors. It's the best Italian dish I know involving fresh tuna.

1. Brush the tuna with olive oil and season it with a little Italian seasoning. Grill it or cook in in a hot skillet to the medium-rare stage (still red in the center). Cut into one-inch cubes.

2. Heat the olive oil in a skillet until it ripples. Add all the other ingredients except the pasta. Saute until everything is heated through, then add the tuna.

3. Turn off the heat. Add the pasta to the pan and toss everything around to distribute the sauce ingredients.

Serves four.