Shrimp remoulade.

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Spicy Garlic Mayonnaise

Somewhere in Provence there is a newspaper whose name is "L'Aioli." That lucky town gets to wake up every day to "The Garlic Mayonnaise." Sounds like a good place to live. Closer to home, chefs have extended the aioli concept to include all sort of other flavors. Here's my contribution to the overload. This is not only tasty as a dip, a squirtable condiment, or even a sandwich spread, but it's also a very pretty color. Thinned with a little water, it makes a wine-friendly salad dressing (no vinegar).

1. Combine the egg yolks, mustard, a tablespoon of the lemon juice and the garlic in a blender or food processor. Blend at medium speed for about 45 seconds.

3. While the blender is running, add the oil a few drops at a time until the contents of the container noticeably begin to change texture. Then step up the addition of the oil to a thin stream while the blender continues to run. When all the oil is incorporated, add the rest of the lemon juice, salt, and cayenne. Refrigerate to thicken.

Makes about 1 3/4 cups.