Shrimp remoulade.

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Strawberry Shortcakes

A true shortcake is not the sponge cake that's typically used for this famous old dessert, but something a lot like a drop biscuit. We make these all the time, and it's an essential for our Easter parties.

Preheat oven to 475 degrees.

1. Measure flour and sugar into a large bowl. Whisk to blend. Cut butter into flour mixture and stir in with a wire whisk until mixture resembles coarse cornmeal. A few small lumps are okay.

2. Blend in the half-and-half with light strokes of a kitchen fork. Continue lightly blending until the dough leaves the side of the bowl. Add a little more milk if necessary to work all the dry ingredients into a sticky, thoroughly damp dough.

3. Spoon out the dough with a tablespoon and drop biscuits about four inches in diameter and two inches high on a greased cookie sheet. Leave about in inch between each. Bake 10 to 14 minutes in the preheated 475-degree oven. They're ready when they lightly brown on the top. Don't look for a dark brown; that indicates overbaking.

4. Wash and remove leaves from the strawberries. Slice them top to bottom about 1/4 inch thick.

5. Whip the cream in a chilled metal bowl until soft peaks form. Add the sugar and continue whipping until no grittiness remains.

6. Slice the shortcakes in half. Spoon some whipped cream on the bottom half. Add sliced strawberries until they fall off the sides, and a little more whipped cream.

Makes about twelve shortcakes.