Breakfast. Sandwiches. Creole.
Abita Springs: 22132 Level. 985-867-9950. Map.
Breakfast and lunch Tuesday-Sunday. Dinner Friday-Saturday.
Casual.
AE DC DS MC V
WHY IT'S NOTEWORTHY
In small towns all over America, the corner of Main and Main almost always has a little old cafe. If the town is lucky, the place will still be in business, usually serving only breakfast and lunch to the same bunch of people every day, plus a few people who happen to be driving through and who think the place is cute. If the town is really, really lucky, the food will be good. All this describes the form and function of the Abita Springs Cafe, right in the middle of the sleepy town of the same name.
WHY IT'S GOOD
Most regular customers come for breakfast, which is generous and good. The omelettes are especially tasty, and include some unique combinations involving seafood and fresh vegetables. Neither the single pancake nor the biscuit can be finished by a person of normal appetite. At lunch, they shift to burgers, poor boys, and a few plate specials of surprising goodness. The new dinner service features just two or three dishes in each course, and is a lot like dining in someone's home.
BACKSTORY
The old frame building has been a restaurant for at least twenty-five years, under different owners. A former chef from Commander's Palace operated it for a decade, and set a higher standard for the food without making it inappropriately stuffy. Current owner Stephen Herbert--also a veteran in restaurant kitchens--made few changes other than cosmetic ones. Recently, he added dinner on the weekends.
DINING ROOM
The grooved-plank paneling inside, the door that constantly needs to be closed, the tables under ceiling fans on the wrap-around patio. . . it's all the stuff of the ideal small-town cafe. The mayor and the sheriff and the old guys get a table as soon as the doors are unlocked and stay there for hours.
ESSENTIAL DISHES
Abita Star breakfast (eggs, cheese, ham, hash browns, in a stack)
Omelettes, especially spinach and crabmeat.
Basic breakfast combinations
Pancakes
Roast beef poor boy
Jethro poor boy (combo)
Abita burger (Cajun style)
Plate specials, especially grilled fish
FOR BEST RESULTS
Don't hesitate to tell them exactly how you want the omelette--not just what should be in it, but how it should be cooked. You might have to wait for a table on Saturdays and Sundays, especially after services let out at the two churches within a block.
OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
A few options for those looking to avoid cholesterol bombs would be helpful. I also wish they served chicory coffee.
FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.
- Dining Environment
- Consistency +1
- Service +1
- Value +1
- Attitude +2
- Wine and Bar
- Hipness -2
- Local Color +2
SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES
- Sidewalk tables
- Open Sunday lunch
- Unusually large servings
- Quick, good meal
- Good for children
- Easy, nearby parking
- No reservations
ANECDOTES AND ANALYSIS
This is the closest restaurant to where I live. For years, my daughter and I came here every Saturday for breakfast--just the two of us. It's that kind of place.
This review was updated with new information on 8/9/2010.
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