Creole.
Covington: 71495 Chestnut. 985-809-7669. Map.
Lunch Thursday-Friday. Dinner Tuesday-Saturday.
Dressy
AE DC DS MC V
Website
WHY IT'S NOTEWORTHY
A handsome mansion dating back to the 1830s, the setting of Annadele's is comparable to what you'd find in a River Road plantation house, complete with expansive, well-planted grounds. The pleasant surprise is that the food is some of the best on the North Shore.
WHY IT'S GOOD
This is a menu from the early 1980s, a great time for New Orleans food. It's distinctly Creole in its flavors and ingredients, and cooked with enough skill that it's hard to complain about the familiarity of all the dishes. In fact, the cooking here has improved with each of my four visits during the past year. The quality of the groceries shows in critical items like lamb chops, quail, steak, and fish--all fresh and of high intrinsic merit. The antique dining rooms, surrounded by the lovely grounds, are perfect for this kind of dining.
BACKSTORY
Parts of the house (originally called Monrepos) predate the Civil War. The town of Claiborne grew up around it, but in the long run Covington becane the center of things, and the main roads passed Monrepos by and left it isolated in an invisible corner of the Bogue Falaya River. In the late 1800s, it was the home of New Orleans Mayor Walter Flower. His daughter was Corinne Dunbar, who opened a famous restaurant on St. Charles Avenue. Under the name Annadele, it became a restaurant in the 1980s. It didn't work out, and remained closed for a long time in the 1990s. After a long-running controversy, it opened as a restaurant and bed-and-breakfast under the aegis of Pat Gallagher, a well-known name in North Shore cooking in those days. Gallagher didn't stay long-term. New investors came in just before the hurricane, and have improved the restaurant ever since.
DINING ROOM
The most scenic dining room by quite a bit is the brick-walled Garden Room which has windows giving out onto the grounds on three walls. The other rooms are pleasant enough in an antique way, but don't have the same allure. Annadele's is full of private rooms, including a very pleasant one for a small party in the wine cellar. The service staff is mostly young, but the presence of a couple of long-time pros lends smoothness. The bar has live music some weekend nights.
ESSENTIAL DISHES
Crab cakes.
Oysters Monropos (Rockefeller and Bienville)
Seafood cheesecake.
Turtle soup.
Gulf fish meuniere.
Gulf fish Gabrielle (beurre blanc and shrimp).
Filet mignon or sirloin strip steak.
Mixed grill (two quail, two lamb chops).
Smoked duckling.
Chocolate soup (dessert, for chocoholics only).
Bread pudding.
Creme bruleee.
FOR BEST RESULTS
It once was possible to walk into this restaurant and get a table, but no more. Reservations on weekends are essential.
OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
The dining rooms off the main hall are a bit noisy, and could use redecorating.
FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.
- Dining Environment +2
- Consistency +1
- Service +1
- Value +1
- Attitude +1
- Wine and Bar
- Hipness -1
- Local Color +3
SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES
- Live music some nights
- Romantic
- Good view
- Good for business meetings
- Many private rooms
- Open Sunday lunch
- Historic
- Unusually large servings
- Good for children
- Easy, nearby parking
- Reservations accepted
ANECDOTES AND ANALYSIS
Out of sight, out of mind. That's a formula that has taken down many good New Orleans restaurants over the years. I keep worrying about Annadele's in that regard, but there seems to be no need. The last two visits I made there had full dining rooms all over the place. The kitchen is very much up to this growing business, and continues to improve its offerings on ever visit.
Unlike La Provence and Dakota, who go after the same kind of business Annadele's does, the menu here is so retro as to seem genteel. It's perfect for the premises, which are stunning.
The only challenge is finding it. "Turn off Causeway Blvd. a block past the Popeyes" is not a seemly direction, but is the most accurate.
This review was updated with new information on 11/24/2009.
A list of all 275 full, current reviews is here.