Classic Creole.
French Quarter: 813 Bienville. 504-523-5433. Map.
Dinner seven nights. Sunday brunch.
Very Dressy
AE DC DS MC V
Website
WHY IT'S NOTEWORTHY
One of the three or four most famous names in the long history of New Orleans dining, Arnaud's remains a solidly excellent restaurant. It has turned in recent years to a slightly more modern style of cooking, but the core of its menu is from the grand French-Creole tradition. Few restaurants serve that better, and no other restaurant matches such food with as magnificent a collection of dining rooms.
WHY IT'S GOOD
While Arnaud's has never hesistated to embrace dishes made famous by its competitors (this is also true of the competitors themselves), its chef Tommy DiGiovanni does a better job than most in bringing those dishes into the twenty-first century. The names and ingredients are familiar, but the presentations and flavors are more refined. The menu has shrunk over the years to the point that almost everything on it can be considered a specialty. Also here is the best Sunday brunch in New Orleans.
BACKSTORY
Arnaud's was founded in 1918 by "Count" (really a French wine salesman) Arnaud Cazenave. With a combination of French classic cuisine and a sense of celebration, Count Arnaud turned his restaurant into the city's most celebrated eatery--a reputation it held until the 1960s, when under his daughter Germaine Wells the restaurant slowly descended first into mediocrity, then into the most disappointing restaurant in town. In 1979, hotelier Archie Casbarian bought the restaurant and, over a period of many years, performed the finest restoration a moribund old restaurant ever received. Casbarian continued polishing the restaurant until last year, when declining health left him hors de combat. He died in early 2009. His wife and children, all of whom have been active in the management of the restaurant for many years, are keeping it on the same path.
DINING ROOM
Atmospherically, Arnaud's is an exemplar of the old-style New Orleans Creole dining institution: tiled floors, tin ceilings, beveled-glass windows, and ancient overhead fans. In the evening, it's two restaurants in one. Its main dining room carries on conventionally, while the room facing Bourbon Street regales diners with a restrained jazz quartet (at a small cover).
ESSENTIAL DISHES
Shrimp Arnaud (remoulade).
Oysters Arnaud (five different baked oysters).
Smoked pompano.
Oysters stewed in cream.
Trout meuniere.
Pompano David.
Pompano en croute.
Duck Ellen.
Veal tournedos Chantal.
Creme brulee.
Bananas Foster.
Bread pudding.
Cafe brulot.
FOR BEST RESULTS
Make a reservation a bit in advance. The restaurant is enormous, but they sell it so effectively that it unexpectedly fills. Order many appetizers and pass them around. Have a cocktail in the French 75 Bar before you begin: it's a classic space.
OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
We're still waiting for lunch--a local tradition with a long history--to return. The return of validated parking would be nice, too.
FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.
- Dining Environment +2
- Consistency +1
- Service +2
- Value
- Attitude +1
- Wine and Bar +1
- Hipness
- Local Color +3
SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES
- Live music every night
- Romantic
- Good view
- Good for business meetings
- Many private rooms
- Open Sunday lunch and dinner
- Open Monday dinner
- Open most holidays
- Historic
- Good for children
- Reservations honored promptly
This review was updated with new information on 9/10/2009.
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