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Restaurant Ratings

The ratings are based mostly on the degree to which the food excites us, and a little on environment, service, and other considerations. I rate restaurants relative to all other restaurants in the New Orleans area. Here's what the stars mean to me:

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Among the best locally.

starstarstarstar
Excellent and ambitious.

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Worth crossing town for.

starstar
Recommended.

*
Acceptable.

No star
Unacceptable.

Cost Ratings
Each dollar sign indicates a ten-dollar range, including a normal meal for the restaurant (dinner, if they serve other meals), not including drinks, or tips. So, for example. . .

1$--$5-15
2$--$15-25
3$--$25-35

. . . and so on, with no upper limit. While this scheme may suggest mathematical precision, know that perception of price varies from diner to diner as much as the star ratings do. So consider this an estimate.

All reviews are based entirely on meals I have personally taken at the restaurant and paid for from my own pocket. I don't take free review meals, nor am I reimbursed by anybody for my restaurant expenditures.

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Baru Bistro & Tapas

Caribbean.
Uptown: 3700 Magazine. 504-895-2225. Map.
Lunch and dinner continuously Tuesday-Saturday.
Casual.
AE DS MC V

WHY IT'S ESSENTIAL
Baru serves the food of Colombia, which has similarities to Central American, South American, and Caribbean food. There are even aspects of the cuisine that remind one of New Orleans. The small restaurant has an engaging, borderline romantic quality that's hard to figure, but many couples do come here for dinner.

WHY IT'S GOOD
The tapas part of the menu (appetizers, to translate) is interesting enough that you can make a full meal from it. Some are better served for two, anyway--notably the parrillada platter of grilled meats with chimichurri. Although seafood might seem to be the mainstay (and they do make great ceviche, among other things), in fact it's the meat dishes that will leave the best impressions.

BACKSTORY
Owner-chef Edgar Caro came here from Cartagena, Colombia, and his food accurately reflects that provenance. Baru is the name of a beachy island off the Colombian coast. As is common for certain addresses around New Orleans, a licensing problem keep baru from serving alcohol, but their fresh fruit drinks are terrific.

DINING ROOM
The restaurant is in a colorful, mostly-lavender corner building where a small grocery store operated for many decades. The interior is gaudier than the exterior, in tones of bright greens and yellows. Most of the tables are along two pillow-softened banquettes of minimal comfort. A half-dozen or so tables on the sidewalk under the balcony are popular, and sometimes fill before the dining room does.

ESSENTIAL DISHES
Tuna tartare.
Fried calamari with aioli.
Langostinos (like big crawfish) with pink sauce.
Mazorca (corn with cheese and pink sauce. atop shoestring potatoes.)
Picada Cartagenera (sauteed chorizo, shrimp, and peppers).
Parrillada platter (grilled beef and chicken with sauces, appetizer or entree).
Chicken asado (grilled, with chimichurri sauce).
Shrimp with mango.
Snapper with plantains.
Carne a la Plancha (grilled skirt steak with mojo sauce)
Lechon Cubano (roast pork shoulder, falling apart).
Patacon con todo (grilled chicken, steak, and chorizo with white cheese).
Pork chop and beans.
Passionfruit sorbet.

FOR BEST RESULTS
Make a reservation. This is a small, popular place. Be prepared to sit very close to someone else if you dine indoors. Try dishes that don't sound quite right; they're the best in the house. Bring your own wine.

OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
The seating in the dining room is a bit too tight and hard to get in and out of. It would be nice for drinks and wine to be served, but that's out of the management's control.

FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.

SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES

This review was updated with new information on 10/20/2009.