The Restaurants We Can't Live Without By Tom Fitzmorris. . . Revised July 2009 Bombay Club Contemporary Creole. French Quarter: 830 Conti. 504-586-0972. Map. Dinner only, seven nights. Open till midnight or later Friday-Saturday. Very Dressy AE DC DS MC V www.thebombayclub.com   WHY IT'S ESSENTIAL   Since its earliest days, the Bombay Club has been one of the dwindling number of places where almost everyone in the room dresses up, even if they're only there for a cocktail. The bar is, in fact, the heart of the place, but the food has been consistent for enough years now to make that a major draw, too. And they serve food until very late on weekends.   WHY IT'S GOOD   The menu of Chef Nick Gile is a blend of classic Creole dishes in new dress with enough new ideas to create the requisite chicnesss. The ingredients are of fine quality and the presentations handsome. The Bombay Club was making a big deal about martinis before they became popular again, and they still make them better than most.   BACKSTORY   Founded on Dumaine Street between Burgundy and Rampart in the early 1980s by Marc Turk, the Bombay Club originally was a very sophisticated lounge, with a vaguely British style, a dress code, and live music at all times. When it moved to its present location, it added a kitchen and food, but continued to emphasize the bar and the music. Present owner Richard Fiske has kept that tradition going.   DINING ROOM   The premises are dominated by a large, rectangular bar in the center of the main room. A tiny courtyard outside a panel of windows prevents the darkness from taking over completely. A number of private, curtained booths line one wall, perfect for a roamntic evening. A smaller dining room off to one side is the most traditional restaurant environment here.   ESSENTIAL DISHES   Oysters Rockefeller. Mussels with frites. Asian-style fried calamari. Crab cake. Curried lamb skewers. Long-leaf caesar salad. Barbecue shrimp. Seared sea scallops with chimichurri. Filet mignon with Stilton. Duck duet (pepper-crusted, seared breast and confit leg). Braised pork shank with white beans. Creme brulee. Gilded chocolate.   FOR BEST RESULTS   Make reservations for the booths for dinner. Dress better than usual; the place seems to lend itself to that.   OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT   The tall tables along side the bar (with matching tall chairs) are fine for a drink, but very uncomfortable for dining. The music is often more bluesy and even raucous than the restaurant seems to need. (This may be my own taste in music talking.)   FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD   Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter. Dining Environment +2 Consistency +1 Service +1 Value Attitude +1 Wine and Bar +1 Hipness +2 Local Color +2   SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES    Live music Romantic Good for business meetings Private dining room (fewer than 25) Private dining room (more than 25) Open Sunday Open Monday Open late Valet parking free Reservations accepted Reservations honored promptly Click here for an index to current reviews of the 200 Essential Restaurants, and others. © 2009 Tom Fitzmorris. All rights reserved. news@nomenu.com