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Restaurant Ratings

The ratings are based mostly on the degree to which the food excites us, and a little on environment, service, and other considerations. I rate restaurants relative to all other restaurants in the New Orleans area. Here's what the stars mean to me:

starstarstarstarstar
Among the best locally.

starstarstarstar
Excellent and ambitious.

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Worth crossing town for.

starstar
Recommended.

*
Acceptable.

No star
Unacceptable.

Cost Ratings
Each dollar sign indicates a ten-dollar range, including a normal meal for the restaurant (dinner, if they serve other meals), not including drinks, or tips. So, for example. . .

1$--$5-15
2$--$15-25
3$--$25-35

. . . and so on, with no upper limit. While this scheme may suggest mathematical precision, know that perception of price varies from diner to diner as much as the star ratings do. So consider this an estimate.

All reviews are based entirely on meals I have personally taken at the restaurant and paid for from my own pocket. I don't take free review meals, nor am I reimbursed by anybody for my restaurant expenditures.

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Bud’s Broiler

Hamburgers.
Broadmoor: 3151 Calhoun. 504-861-0906. Map.
City Park Area: 500 City Park Ave., 504-486-2559. Map.
Jefferson: 4101 Jefferson Hwy., 504-837-9419. Map.
Kenner: 2800 Veterans Blvd., 504-466-0026. Map.
Marrero: 5100 Lapalco Blvd, 504-348-0492. Map.
Metairie: 2929 N Causeway Blvd, 504-833-3770 . Map.
Metairie: 2008 Clearview Pkwy, 504-889-2837. Map.
River Ridge: 9327 Jefferson Hwy, 504-738-2452. Map.
All: Lunch and dinner seven days.
Very Casual.
AE DS MC V
Website

WHY IT'S NOTEWORTHY
For many New Orleanians, the first discovery that a hamburger could rise above the level of ordinary occurred at a Bud's Broiler. My eye-opener involved a Number Six in the summer of 1967, at the now-gone Bud's on Banks Street. I can recall that flavor to this day. It's a great concept: hamburgers (or hot dogs, chicken, or fish) grilled over live charcoal, served on toasted buns with grated cheddar cheese and other above-average add-ons. If Bud's executed it's brilliant, unconventional idea with better consistency and used fresh potatoes for its fries, it would make those top-ten lists you see in national magazines.

WHY IT'S GOOD
As their old paper bags said, "Where. . . charcoal grilling makes the difference." That is a fact. The part I elided in the above was "high-quality beef," which is less true. The beef is way above average, but it could be much better: hand-formed patties, for example, and seasoned more interestingly. Even so, it's a distinctive product. Since Katrina, we've seen a change in the hamburgers: the meat patties are bigger, while everything else has remained the same. I'd say this has not moved the sandwich either up or down. An underappreciated aspect of Bud's is that they toast their buns, which makes quite a difference.

The advent of franchising for Bud's Broiler has introduced a great difference among the restaurants. The best food is at the City Park, Kenner, Jefferson, and River Ridge locations. The least good is the 24-hour Clearview Parkway Bud's, which seems to be as much about video poker as anything.

BACKSTORY
Bud's Broiler was founded by Bud Saunders in the late 1950s. The first location was on Airline Highway, around Turnbull Drive. Then came the one on City Park Avenue, the oldest Bud's still extant. That set a precedent for offbeat locations, the strangest one being in the middle of a block of a Gentilly side street whose main occupant is a Jewish cemetery. It also set a standard of very scruffy premises; even newly-opened Bud's Broilers look worn out. Saunders had it all figured out from the beginning, and the formula has weathered the decades well--even the 1990s, when Bud's became terribly inconsistent and poorly staffed. During the past ten years, the chain has become dominated by franchisees, who have typically improved the product and service. Since Katrina, most of the Bud's locations have returned to the quality of its best days.

DINING ROOM
No two Bud's Broilers are alike. What they have in common are wooden picnic-style tables and benches, their tops carved with the initials of past customers. The carving of your own is not encouraged, but obviously a lot of people have done it. Everything else is equally utilitarian. One wall is dominated by a real chimney above the charcoal grill--the sine qua non of Bud's. The places are staffed by people who take their mission very seriously, or seem to.

ESSENTIAL DISHES
Hamburgers:
#1 (with a sauce of mayonnaise, relish, and #2 sauce).
#2: Hickory smoke sauce.
#3: Grated Cheddar cheese.
#4: Chili.
#5: Lettuce and tomatoes.
#6: Same as #5, but with cheese.
Hot dogs.
Grilled chicken sandwich.
Grilled smoked sausage sandwich.
Grilled fish sandwich.
French fries.
Fried pies: apple, peach, and cherry.

FOR BEST RESULTS
Know that Bud's is not fast food. They make most of their sandwiches to order, and that takes a few minutes. Note that some, but not all, Bud's take credit cards.

OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
What a place this would be with fresh-cut French fries! And an upscale, thicker burger in addition to the standard models! Some Bud's could do with a very thorough clean-up.

FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.

SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES

This review was updated with new information on 1/21/10.


A list of over 300 full, current reviews is here.