From The New Orleans Menu Daily By Tom Fitzmorris Revised August 2009 #77 Cafe Lynn French Creole. Mandeville: 3051 East Causeway Approach . 985-624-9007. Map. Lunch Wednesday-Friday. Dinner Wednesday-Sunday. Sunday brunch 11:30 a.m.-8 p.m. Nice Casual. AE DC DS MC V www.cafelynn.com   WHY IT'S ESSENTIAL   As popular as they are in the city, there aren't many gourmet bistros on the North Shore. Cafe Lynn is one of the best of the few, with an engaging menu just innovative enough to set it apart from the neighborhood restaurant it appears to be at first glance.   WHY IT'S GOOD   The clean blend of French and Creole flavors is kept within the confines of the familiar. You don't have to go through the whole menu before finding a dish that sounds delicious. The emphasis is on fresh local product, prepared without pretentiousness or the making of menu statements. Seafood is the mainstay of the menu, although they cook everything well.   BACKSTORY   The chef-owner is Joey Najolia, the final chef de cuisine at La Provence before founder Chris Kerageorgiou died. When the restaurant was sold to John Besh, Najolia decided to go on his own. He bought a disused Burger King, removed as much of its distinctive exterior look as he could, replaced the booths with real tables, and opened up. Still every now and then someone enters with a Whopper in mind.   DINING ROOM   Once you're inside, it doesn't feel like a BK. The square room is furnished with white tablecloths and bistro furnishings. The lighting is an adaptation from the bad old days, and needs a redesign, but otherwise the place lends itself to a sophisticated evening out.   ESSENTIAL DISHES   Crab cake with remoulade and tomato fondue. Eggplant Gabriel (with shellfish cream sauce). Duck liver pate. Escargots Cerveau (with herb cream sauce, almost a soup). Fried eggplant sticks with marinara. French onion tart. Goat cheese salad. Shrimp grillades and grits (brunch). Crabmeat and four-cheese cannelloni. Grilled fish with pesto. Soft-shell crabs Grenobloise (a frequent special). Steak au poivre. Pork osso buco. Roasted quail. Roast duck Kerageorgiou (with an orange sauce). Bread pudding. Creme brulee.   FOR BEST RESULTS   The specials are a bit better than the regular menu. The restaurant is completely surrounded by road construction. Watch for signs direction you through the parking lot of the adjacent strip mall, and don't give up.   OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT   The lighting scheme needs to be done over. The service staff is young and a little inexperienced.   FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD   Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter. Dining Environment +1 Consistency +2 Service +1 Value +1 Attitude +2 Wine and Bar Hipness +1 Local Color -1   SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES    Open Sunday lunch and dinner Open all afternoon Good for children Easy, nearby parking Reservations accepted Click here for an index to current reviews of the 200 Essential Restaurants, and others. Click here for an index of all restaurant reviews. © 2009 Tom Fitzmorris. All rights reserved. news@nomenu.com.