Subscribe To The
Five-Star Edition!

Shrimp remoulade.

This review originally appeared in the New Orleans Menu Daily, which brings out a full, up-to-date restaurant review every weekday. Along with local restaurant news, top-ten lists, recipes, and Tom Fitzmorris's Dining Diary. All of it is original and current, illustrated with lots of photos of New Orleans restaurants, chefs, and their food.

The price of a subscription is whatever number of dollars seems right to you. For that amount, you get full access to the daily newsletter online, an e-mail bulletin version every day, and archives of everything published since Hurricane Katrina.

If you're still not convinced, do two things: 1. Know that I'll refund all your money if you're not happy. 2. Take a look at this sample edition. Then. . .

Thank you!

Tastefully yours,
Tom Fitzmorris


Restaurant Ratings

The ratings are based mostly on the degree to which the food excites us, and a little on environment, service, and other considerations. I rate restaurants relative to all other restaurants in the New Orleans area. Here's what the stars mean to me:

starstarstarstarstar
Among the best locally.

starstarstarstar
Excellent and ambitious.

starstarstar
Worth crossing town for.

starstar
Recommended.

*
Acceptable.

No star
Unacceptable.

Cost Ratings
Each dollar sign indicates a ten-dollar range, including a normal meal for the restaurant (dinner, if they serve other meals), not including drinks, or tips. So, for example. . .

1$--$5-15
2$--$15-25
3$--$25-35

. . . and so on, with no upper limit. While this scheme may suggest mathematical precision, know that perception of price varies from diner to diner as much as the star ratings do. So consider this an estimate.

All reviews are based entirely on meals I have personally taken at the restaurant and paid for from my own pocket. I don't take free review meals, nor am I reimbursed by anybody for my restaurant expenditures.

starstarstar
pricebar

Chops Bistro

Steaks. Contemporary Creole.
Metairie: 111 Veterans Blvd.. 504-218-8967. Map.
Lunch Monday-Friday. Dinner Tuesday-Saturday.
Nice Casual
AE DC DS MC V
Website

WHY IT'S NOTEWORTHY
Despite its name, Chops is not quite what I'd call a steakhouse. The menu reads more like that of a contemporary Creole bistro, full of grilled fish, crabmeat, dark roux gumbos, and pannee veal. The steaks are all but hidden on the menu. They're good enough, filling the gap between the inexpensive and the deluxe steakhouses at prices to match.

WHY IT'S GOOD
The restaurant has an engaging, casual feel and a good bar. As the name implies, the kitchen specializes in red meats. Steaks are not billed as prime but of more than decent pedigree. Lamb chops and pork chops are also handled well. The rest of the menu reminds us of the food served at the old Charley G's, which was here three restaurants ago.

BACKSTORY
The restaurant space off the second-floor lobby of the Heritage Plaza office building has seen many eateries come and go over the years. The best remembered of them was Charley G's, which built the place more or less as it stands now. Chops opened just before the hurricane and returned not long after it--at a newly dramatic location. The canal you see outside the windows is the one whose levee break (on the other side) did the most damage to the city.

DINING ROOM
The split-level main dining room is dominated by two rows of booths that are slightly too small for parties of four. Windows on three sides and a stretch of space in front of the open kitchen give an expansive quality.

ESSENTIAL DISHES
Crab cakes
Dueling oysters (two ways--Buffalo style and poached and pickled with aioli)
Blackened tuna nachos
Sweet and spicy fried calamari
Fried eggplant with marinara and crabmeat-avocado salsa
Angry shrimp and grits (spicy)
Fried green tomatoes and shrimp remoulade
Crabmeat and lobster au gratin
Roasted corn and crab bisque
Duck and andouille gumbo
Creole caesar salad with fried capers
Iceberg wedge salad with blue cheese, bacon, and tomatoes
Speckled trout with crabmeat
Grilled yellowfin tuna
Grouper with lobster risotto
Potato-crusted flounder
Shrimp and tasso pasta
Roasted breast ofchicken
Steaks: filet mignon, ribeye, cowboy ribeye New York strip, porterhouse
Dueling filet medallions (with hollandaise on one and blue cheese demi-glace on the other)
Double cut pork chop
Rack of lamb (New Zealand)
Creme brulee
White chocolate and macadamia bread pudding

FOR BEST RESULTS
Every night the restaurant runs a three-course, $29 dinner with several choices throughout, with optional wine pairings. The grilled entrees are significantly better than the fried. The restaurant gets very busy at lunchtime with all the people in that office building.

OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
Tables in the lower part of the split-level dining room are to be avoided (but they don't use them much). The booths are a little too small. Wine list is a bit weak.

FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.

SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES

This review was updated with new information on 6/18/2010.


A list of over 350 full, current reviews is here.