Sandwiches. Platters. Seafood.
Jefferson: 428 Jefferson Hwy.. 504-833-2722. Map.
Lunch and early dinner (until 5 p.m.) Monday-Saturday.
Very Casual.
AE DS MC V
WHY IT'S NOTEWORTHY
A convincingly funky, utilitarian neighborhood eats shop, Crabby Jack's is different enough to stand out in a city full of such places. The duck poor boy alone is reason enough to have lunch here.
WHY IT'S GOOD
In some ways Crabby Jack's food is entirely traditional. But much of the menu is big-time unconventional--most notably the duck poor boy. It looks like a roast beef sandwich, with shredded meat and gravy--but it's all duck. The seafood poor boys are absurdly overstuffed--several dozen oysters is typical. All of that is fried up to order. Being immediately adjacent to a seafood wholesaler does wonderful things for the quality of the fish and shellfish here.
BACKSTORY
Crabby Jack is Jack Leonardi, the owner of the Cajun cult favorite Jacques-Imo's on Oak Street. This minimal restaurant took over a previous poor boy shop in 2002, and quickly became almost as great a phenom as Jacques-Imo's.
DINING ROOM
Nothing fancy: fluorescent lights, a counter, a glass-front refrigerator, a small window through which the kitchen passes the food. There's not enough space to eat comfortably here, and others want your table. Most of the customers get take-out.
ESSENTIAL DISHES
Poor boy sandwiches:
Roast duck.
Roast beef.
Fried shrimp.
Fried oysters.
Fried catfish.
Panneed veal or rabbit.
~
Fried green tomatoes with shrimp remoulade.
Seafood platters, especially fried oyster and shrimp.
Blackened fish.
Daily special platters.
Boiled crawfish in season.
FOR BEST RESULTS
Tell them to take it easy on the gravy on the sandwiches. Avoid the early lunch hour. The restaurant stays open almost, but not quite, until dinner, closing at five.
OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
The signs telling you to "Be Nice Or Leave!" are counterproductive.
FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.
- Dining Environment -1
- Consistency +1
- Service -1
- Value +1
- Attitude
- Wine and Bar
- Hipness +1
- Local Color +1
SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES
- Open Monday lunch
- Open all afternoon
- Unusually large servings
- Quick, good meal
- Good for children
- Easy, nearby parking
ANECDOTES AND ANALYSIS
This review was updated with new information on 12/11/2009.
A list of all 300 full, current reviews is here.