Steak.
Mid-City: 1001 N. Broad. 504-821-3271. Map.
Lunch and dinner continuously Wednesday-Sunday.
Casual
AE DC DS MC V
Website
WHY IT'S NOTEWORTHY
The Crescent City created the prime New Orleans-style steakhouse as we know it--along with the irresistible sizzling-in-butter method of serving it. It has been almost changeless over the years, a standard by which all other steakhouses can be measured (although some are better now). It is the ultimate place to have one's final steak before Lent, and I've gone there every Mardi Gras for decades.
WHY IT'S GOOD
All the beef is USDA Prime; all of it is dry-aged on the premises. The aging, in fact, is a bit more assertive in flavor than some might be accustomed to tasting. (Some register the aged flavor as spoiled.) For connoisseurs of aged beef, what they serve here has no equal. The cuts that benefit from the aging most are the strip, T-bone, and porterhouse, although fans of the ribeye will like this one.
BACKSTORY
John Vojkovich--one of many Croatian immigrants who built great restaurants in New Orleans--created this very straightforward steakhouse in 1934. It looked and operated then almost exactly as it does now. The location was key to its success. On the route away from the Fair Grounds Race Course, it early on built a clientele of guys with money to use in celebration but not much culinary savvy. But almost anybody can get his head around a first-class steak, and they did. The restaurant is now operated by the founder's wife and children.
DINING ROOM
The main room is moderately small, with a distinctive antique-modern look (I can't think of another term for it). Tiled floors, a pressed-tin ceiling (not original, but added by a movie crew during a post-Katrina filming there), rounded windows and doors all around (the room has four entrances, although they use only one). A smaller private room in the rear is used when the place is packed and they have enough staff to serve it.
ESSENTIAL DISHES
Shrimp cocktail.
House salad.
Filet mignon.
Strip sirloin steak.
T-bone.
Porterhouse for two.
Potatoes au gratin.
Brabant potatoes.
Lyonnaise potatoes.
Broccoli or spinach au gratin.
Bread pudding.
Cafe au lait.
FOR BEST RESULTS
The steak is everything here. Appetizers and side dishes, which are almost laughably unimpressive, are there only to fill in the gaps around the steak.
OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
Although the family doesn't want to change anything from the way the founder created it, some aspects of the menu desperately need upgrading (although the steaks should never change).
FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.
- Dining Environment +1
- Consistency +2
- Service
- Value +1
- Attitude
- Wine and Bar
- Hipness -2
- Local Color +2
SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES
- Good for business meetings
- Small private room
- Open Sunday lunch and dinner
- Open all afternoon
- Historic
- Good for children
- Easy, nearby parking
- Reservations accepted
This review was updated with new information on 2/11/2010.