Contemporary Creole.
Riverbend: 736 Dante. 504-861-3121. Map.
Dinner Wednesday-Saturday and Monday (closed Tuesday). Sunday brunch.
Casual
AE DC DS MC V
Website
WHY IT'S NOTEWORTHY
Here's a very skillful, original chef cooking in minimal surroundings at prices well below what would be charged for comparable food in fancier establishments. Many Orleanians love that combination, and the only way they could find even slightly better than Chef E-Man's cooking would be to walk across the street to Brigtsen's. (And Frank Brigtsen himself might not even claim that.) Sunday brunch, a rarity in this part of town, is also terrific.
WHY IT'S GOOD
Cooking entirely for flavor and avoiding all pretentiousness, the food here starts with great fresh ingredients and applies excitement, through seasonings, sauces, and cooking techniques. Chicken grilled under a brick (a brick dug out of the back yard a few years ago) is a great example of the style: simple food, tremendous taste. E-Man is always walking on the edge. Neal McClure, who runs the wine and service department, keeps the cellar full of interesting bottles.
BACKSTORY
Chef-owner Emanuel "E-Man" Loubier opened this place in 2000, after a long stint at Commander's Palace, where he was one of Chef Jamie Shannon's top guns. You'd never know that to eat E-Man's food, though. He isn't copying anybody.
DINING ROOM
The building is a converted cottage built on massive wood beams, at least a century old. The main dining room in there has high ceilings and a somewhat closed-in effect. Additions along one side create a sort of inside-outside feeling, and there's an outdoor dining area that goes all the way with that.
ESSENTIAL DISHES
Homemade charcuterie platter.
Escargots with goat cheese and bacon.
Shrimp and grits with andouille red-eye gravy.
Barbecue shrimp.
Redfish “on the half-shell.”
Seared diver scallops with caulilower relish.
Chicken roasted under a brick.
Roasted duck breast with pulled confit and wild mushrooms.
Filet mignon trio with three sauces.
Hazelnut creme brulee.
Bread pudding French toast.
FOR BEST RESULTS
This is a great restaurant for ordering heavy and passing dishes around. It's also fun to compile an all-appetizer meal. The brunch menu is one of the city's most original. Remember that they're closed on Tuesday.
OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
The dining rooms on the outdoor edge of the restaurant are a bit uncomfortable.
FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.
- Dining Environment
- Consistency +2
- Service +1
- Value +1
- Attitude +1
- Wine and Bar +1
- Hipness +2
- Local Color +2
SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES
- Courtyard dining
- Good for business meetings
- Small private room
- Historic
- Easy, nearby parking
This review was updated with new information on 4/12/2010.
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