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Restaurant Ratings

The ratings are based mostly on the degree to which the food excites us, and a little on environment, service, and other considerations. I rate restaurants relative to all other restaurants in the New Orleans area. Here's what the stars mean to me:

starstarstarstarstar
Among the best locally.

starstarstarstar
Excellent and ambitious.

starstarstar
Worth crossing town for.

starstar
Recommended.

*
Acceptable.

No star
Unacceptable.

Cost Ratings
Each dollar sign indicates a ten-dollar range, including a normal meal for the restaurant (dinner, if they serve other meals), not including drinks, or tips. So, for example. . .

1$--$5-15
2$--$15-25
3$--$25-35

. . . and so on, with no upper limit. While this scheme may suggest mathematical precision, know that perception of price varies from diner to diner as much as the star ratings do. So consider this an estimate.

All reviews are based entirely on meals I have personally taken at the restaurant and paid for from my own pocket. I don't take free review meals, nor am I reimbursed by anybody for my restaurant expenditures.

TwoStars
Average check per person $15-$25
DiCristina's

Neighborhood Cafe.
Covington: 810 N. Columbia. 985-875-0160. Map.
Lunch Tuesday-Friday. Dinner Tuesday-Saturday.
Casual.
AE MC V
Website

WHY IT'S NOTEWORTHY
Even though it's relatively new, DiCristina's cooks a broad range of food from the catalog of the old-time, Italian-owned neighborhood restaurant. The menu is inspired by that of the iconic Chalmette restaurant Rock & Carlo's, including the massive portions, macaroni and cheese everywhere, heavy applications of New Orleans red gravy, poor boys and seafood platters.

WHY IT'S GOOD
If you have a thing for that old style of Creole-Italian cookery, you'll love this place. Those who prefer the lighter style of Italian cooking will be less impressed. The macaroni and cheese--with or without red or brown gravy--will grab you even if you don't want to be grabbed.

BACKSTORY
Frank and Maria Pyburn opened DiCristina's in the right place (across from the new St. Tammany Courthouse) at the right time (2004). The courthouse generates a lot of lunch business for that neighborhood. And after Katrina, the many people who relocated to St. Tammany Parish from the washed-away St. Bernard were happy to find a restaurant with the food of (and a family connection with) Rocky & Carlo's.

DINING ROOM
A big, utilitarian space with minimal decoration, DiCristina's fills with lunchers in a hurry and big family groups at night. It's perfect for the latter, especially when kids are involved; nobody's too concerned about laughing too loud here.

ESSENTIAL MENU [» Recommended]
Appetizers:
»Meat-stuffed fried ravioli, crawfish sauce
Fried eggplant, crawfish sauce
»Onion rings
Fried artichoke hearts, marinara sauce
»Fried eggplant, marinara sauce
Spinach-artichoke dip
Cheese fries, brown gravy
»Italian salad
Chef salad
Caesar salad
Muffaletta salad
Most salads can be had entree-size with chicken, shrimp, or oysters, grilled or fried
Sandwiches:
»Muffaletta
»Oyster, shrimp, or catfish poor boy
Hot roast beef poor boy
Meatball poor boy
»Chicken or veal parmesan poor boy
Hamburger poor boy
Grilled chicken poor boy, grilled onions
»Italian, hot, or smoked sausage poor boy
Ham, turkey or roast beef poor boy
French fry poor boy, brown gravy
Grilled shrimp poor boy
Club sandwich
Entrees:
»Fried catfish, oyster, shrimp, or combo platter
Crab cakes
»Fried soft shell crab
»Spaghetti or baked macaroni with meatballs, veal parmesan, chicken parmesan, or eggplant parmesan
Cheese stuffed ravioli, red gravy
Fettuccine Alfredo
Spaghetti bordelaise
»Fried chicken
»Chicken bordelaise
Grilled chicken
Beef stuffed bell pepper
Veal cutlet
Hamburger steak
Pork chop
Ribeye bordelaise
»Filet mignon bordelaise
Desserts:
Banana cream cheese pudding
»Bread pudding, rum sauce
Chocolate peanut butter pie
Spumoni ice cream pie

FOR BEST RESULTS
Make certain that the thin-fried onion rings and macaroni and cheese show up somewhere. One order is plenty for a table of four.

OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
An interior renovation would make the place more pleasant. It looks better from the outside.

FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.

SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES

This review was updated with new information on 9/8/2010.

A list of over 400 full, current reviews is here.