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Restaurant Ratings

The ratings are based mostly on the degree to which the food excites us, and a little on environment, service, and other considerations. I rate restaurants relative to all other restaurants in the New Orleans area. Here's what the stars mean to me:

starstarstarstarstar
Among the best locally.

starstarstarstar
Excellent and ambitious.

starstarstar
Worth crossing town for.

starstar
Recommended.

*
Acceptable.

No star
Unacceptable.

Cost Ratings
Each dollar sign indicates a ten-dollar range, including a normal meal for the restaurant (dinner, if they serve other meals), not including drinks, or tips. So, for example. . .

1$--$5-15
2$--$15-25
3$--$25-35

. . . and so on, with no upper limit. While this scheme may suggest mathematical precision, know that perception of price varies from diner to diner as much as the star ratings do. So consider this an estimate.

All reviews are based entirely on meals I have personally taken at the restaurant and paid for from my own pocket. I don't take free review meals, nor am I reimbursed by anybody for my restaurant expenditures.

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Frosty's Cafe

Vietnamese. Desserts.
Metairie: 3400 Cleary Ave.. 504-888-9600. Map.
Lunch and dinner continuously (until 7 p.m.) Monday-Saturday. Very Casual.
MC V

WHY IT'S NOTEWORTHY
A small Vietnamese cafe in an unlikely place, Frosty's has a limited menu even by the standards of pho shops. What they cook is good enough, although even a minimum of effort will find much better versions of almost everything on the menu. The place remains in our crosshairs because it was the first place in New Orleans to serve a unique Southeast Asian drink. Misleadingly names "bubble teas," these in fact have neither bubbles nor tea in most of the dozens of versions. They're more like smoothies, made with fresh fruit, ice, and spheres of tapioca. The latter--which are usually black--are the bubbles. They serve no function with which you will be familiar; you just suck them up through the oversize straws and figure it out. These things are surprisingly refreshing and delicious.

WHY IT'S GOOD
Other Vietnamese restaurants have begun serving bubble teas, but no other place is quite as adept at their manufacture (it does come out of a machine) as Frosty's is. The range of options will take the rest of your life to explore--a happy prospect. As for the food, it's not bad--and that's as far as I'll go with that.

BACKSTORY
The seemingly inappropriate name dates back to a standard Metairie sno-ball stand that also sold sandwiches and hot dogs. When the present owners took over, they thought the sign looked too good to replace, so they just kept the name.

DINING ROOM
You order at the counter and pick up your food there, too. If you dine in, there are a few tables and a counter with stools.

ESSENTIAL DISHES
Fried spring roll
Pho soup with beef or chicken
Grilled pork or beef on cool vermicelli noodles
Banh mi sandwiches (Vietnamese poor boys)
Bubble teas

FOR BEST RESULTS
The best part of the menu other than the bubble teas is the small selection of banh mi sandwiches. Really, eat somewhere else and come here for the bubble teas, which make a good dessert.

OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
The pho will make some of the more vociferous lovers of that Vietnamese soup rise up with their fists shaking. That needs to be much improved or banished.

FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.

SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES

This review was updated with new information on 5/12/2010.


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