Seafood.
French Quarter: 808 Bienville. 504-581-3467. Map.
Dinner seven nights. Open Friday lunch during peak periods.
Nice Casual.
AE DC DS MC V
Website
WHY IT'S NOTEWORTHY
GW Fins does with seafood what the prime steakhouses do with beef. The kitchen’s main task is finding top-quality finfish and shellfish wherever it is to be found. Surprisingly few restaurants put forth much effort in that direction, making any that do stand out. Fins' co-owner/chef Tenny Flynn's seafood procurement machine brings great surprises to the table every night.
WHY IT'S GOOD
Fish being the elusive ingredient that it is, no good fish house has the same resources every day. GWFins prints a new menu every day to reflect its discoveries, with a dozen or more species of finfish every day. Half are local, half exotic. That's also true of the cooking style. You can get a great sauteed redfish with crabmeat on top like you can everywhere else, or something completely unique. Occasional special menus bring forth rare items like Australian crabs and exotic tunas. All of this is prepared simply and very well, in portions substantial enough so you can taste the stuff.
BACKSTORY
Owners Gary Wollerman and Tenney Flynn were the top guys in the Ruth's Chris Steak House operation nationwide until Ruth sold to the corporate guys. They left to start this restaurant in 2001. They opened a barbecue joint on Iberville Street called Zydeque that they later sold, and an unsuccessful branch of GWFins in Charlotte, NC.
DINING ROOM
An old D.H. Holmes warehouse was rebuilt--without completely removing all the industrial-look stuff--into a sharp, modern space. Space, in fact, is the key word. Lots of it between the tables, floor to ceiling, in the bar, in the bathrooms, everywhere. The wall of windows in front allows a great view of Arnaud’s, across the street.
ESSENTIAL DISHES
Menu changes daily, but a few dishes are usually there (if the fish is available):
Seafood gumbo.
Lobster dumplings.
Smoked, sizzling oysters on the shell.
Tuna tartare and sashimi.
Horseradish-crusted drum.
Short-smoked salmon.
Sea scallops with mushroom risotto.
Wood-grilled pompano.
Grilled lamb chops.
Baked-to-order apple pie.
White chocolate bread pudding.
Valhrona Chocolate Cake.
FOR BEST RESULTS
If a special menu is running, give it priority. Don't eat too many of the complimentary sweet drop biscuits they pass around at the beginning. Spend more time than usual with the menu, on the back of which is a large wine list with dozens of wines by the glass.
OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
The Chilean sea bass is interesting, but I object to its presence on the menu. They could use more appetizers. I wish they were open for Friday lunches throughout the year (They are only during the holidays.)
FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.
- Dining Environment +2
- Consistency +2
- Service +1
- Value +1
- Attitude +2
- Wine and Bar +2
- Hipness +1
- Local Color +2
SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES
- Romantic
- Good view
- Good for business meetings
- Many private rooms
- Open Sunday dinner
- Open Monday dinner
- Historic
- Good for children
- Free valet parking
- Reservations honored promptly
This review was updated with new information on 2/26/2010.
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