Contemporary Creole. Seafood. Steaks And Chops.
Covington: 509 S Tyler . 985-892-9992. Map.
Lunch Tuesday-Friday. Dinner Tuesday-Saturday.
Nice Casual.
AE DC DS MC V
Website
WHY IT'S NOTEWORTHY
The North Shore dining scene seems to be missing something when Pat Gallagher doesn't have an active restaurant. When he returns from his furloughs, he attracts an enormous crowd of regulars, all of whom are ecstatic to learn that Pat has not been infected by current culinary trends, and is still putting out the contemporary Creole dishes that established his work as delicious. This one is all that, in a very pleasant bistro environment with a patio and a good bar.
WHY IT'S GOOD
Nothing in Gallagher's repertoire is even slightly unfamiliar to New Orleans diners. He makes it all exciting by purchasing excellent beef (Prime), lamb chops, quail (local), and the full panoply of Louisiana seafood. The restaurant cooks more different kinds of fish than most. You are more likely to find pompano, lemonfish, and speckled trout than anywhere else north of the lake. He uses bubbling butter and rich sauces flagrantly and deliciously. Always here but not on the menu: a combination platter of quail and lamb that's hard to beat.
BACKSTORY
Pat Gallagher's following has to be very avid to keep up with him. The son of a revered Covington sports coach, he opened the Winner's Circle--his first restaurant--in Folsom, in the 1980s. It made him famous on the North Shore. He shut it down and reopened in a new location, where Dakota is now. Disappear, reappear--this time in the old Forest Steakhouse in Covington. While there he opened Annadele Plantation, but after a year or two was gone again. Next post was as executive chef of Ruth's Chris in Metairie. Now this restaurant, opened in late 2009. It occupies a property space where many eateries have come and gone. Only one other (Chef Claude Aubert's Le Bec Fin in 1985) was anywhere near as good or as handsome as Gallagher's Grill. And there we are, for now.
DINING ROOM
The main dining room, with its brick floor and rarely-used fireplace continues the rusticity of this older part of Covington. Interesting art pieces in metal and glass give a sophistication to the all of the dining rooms. Past the bar is a small courtyard for sipping anytime or dining on nice, busy days. The service staff in the evening is young, friendly and knowledgeable. Lunch service is a little less smooth.
ESSENTIAL DISHES
Shrimp Remoulade with deviled egg
Panko crab cake
Crabmeat ravigote martini
(The above three items are available as a combination for two.)
Oysters en brochette
Crabmeat au gratin
Barbecue shrimp and grits
Fried calamari
Seafood gumbo
Creole turtle soup
Gazpacho with lump crab
Tomato and vidalia onion salad.
Ribeye steak.
Filet mignon (large and small)
Stuffed chicken breast
Charcoal grilled quail
Grilled pork chop with cane syrup glaze
Grilled lemonfish with grilled shrimp
Barbecue spare ribs
Gulf fish amandine or meuniere
Stuffed shrimp with chimichurri sauce
Fried or broiled redfish
Crème brûlée with fresh berries
Bread pudding
Flourless chocolate cake
FOR BEST RESULTS
Although it's not the packed house it was when it opened, I wouldn't come here on a weekend without a reservation. The steaks and chops are in the top rank. See if you can work a quail somewhere into the meal. The appetizers are good, large, and varied enough that you could make a dinner of them.
OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
Lunch is significantly less good than dinner, in both the food and service departments. This may be because Gallagher himself has been there only once in five lunches I've had.
FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.
- Dining Environment +2
- Consistency +1
- Service +1
- Value
- Attitude +1
- Wine and Bar +1
- Hipness
- Local Color +2
SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES
- Courtyard or deck dining
- Romantic
- Good for business meetings
- Medium private room
- Early-evening specials
- Open some holidays
- Unusually large servings
- Good for children
- Easy, nearby parking
- Reservations accepted
This review was updated with new information on 5/6/2010.
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