Creole. Italian. Sandwiches.
Metairie: 741 Bonnabel. 504-835-8593. Map.
Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday. Sunday brunch.
Casual.
AE DC DS MC V
Website
WHY IT'S NOTEWORTHY
After establishing itself as a maker of excellent poor boys for decades, Giorlando's has grown into a full-service neighborhood restaurant, comparable to the great neighborhood eateries like Mandina's. The menu focuses on seafood and Italian dishes, but it heads off in other directions, particularly in the daily specials. And the poor boys remain as good as ever.
WHY IT'S GOOD
As much as this restaurant has moved upscale, it has no pretensions about its food: it's good, basic New Orleans style eats, prepared simply but from scratch, cooked to order when frying is involved, served more generously than you or I really need but stopping short of grossness. The Italian cooking would suit the palate of a child--but most of us never got over our taste for smooth, slightly sweet red sauces.
BACKSTORY
Giorlando's opened in 1973 as a self-service poor boy shop, and kept busy at that until the hurricane. Then John Giorlando--who took over the restaurant from his father earlier that year--embarked upon a slow but steady program of expansion, both of the facility and the menu. The place has become a full-fledged neighborhood restaurant with table service, wine, and dinner every night.
DINING ROOM
It looks much nicer inside than the utilitarian exterior suggests. It's decidedly casual, but comfortable enough that it feels like you've gone out to eat, not just grabbed a bite. A surplus of windows adds to the spaciousness. Service may strike some as a little slow, but it's in line with the cook-to-order food.
ESSENTIAL DISHES
Roast beef poor boy.
Hot sausage poor boy.
Meatball poor boy with red sauce and mozzarella.
Fried seafood poor boys.
Muffuletta.
Fried seafood platters.
Pasta with red sauce, in any variation.
Lasagna.
Chicken Parmesan.
Daily specials.
Red beans and rice with hot sausage.
Bread pudding.
FOR BEST RESULTS
Sometimes a crush of business at the peak of lunchtime slows things down. They automatically heat the excellent muffuletta, but it's better not heated.
OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
They don't toss the pasta with the sauce, a step that would improve all the pasta dishes.
FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.
- Dining Environment
- Consistency +1
- Service
- Value +2
- Attitude +1
- Wine and Bar
- Hipness -2
- Local Color +1
SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES
- Good for business meetings
- Open Monday lunch and dinner
- Open all afternoon
- Unusually large servings
- Quick, good meal
- Good for children
- Easy, nearby parking
This review was updated with new information on 8/18/2010.
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