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Restaurant Ratings

The ratings are based mostly on the degree to which the food excites us, and a little on environment, service, and other considerations. I rate restaurants relative to all other restaurants in the New Orleans area. Here's what the stars mean to me:

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Among the best locally.

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Excellent and ambitious.

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Worth crossing town for.

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Recommended.

*
Acceptable.

No star
Unacceptable.

Cost Ratings
Each dollar sign indicates a ten-dollar range, including a normal meal for the restaurant (dinner, if they serve other meals), not including drinks, or tips. So, for example. . .

1$--$5-15
2$--$15-25
3$--$25-35

. . . and so on, with no upper limit. While this scheme may suggest mathematical precision, know that perception of price varies from diner to diner as much as the star ratings do. So consider this an estimate.

All reviews are based entirely on meals I have personally taken at the restaurant and paid for from my own pocket. I don't take free review meals, nor am I reimbursed by anybody for my restaurant expenditures.

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Hillbilly Barbecue

Barbecue.
River Ridge: 208 Tullulah. 504-738-1508. Map.
11 a.m.-8 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday.
Very Casual.
AE DS MC V
Website

WHY IT'S NOTEWORTHY
New Orleans is not, and never has been, a very good town for barbecue. Hillbilly is one of a very small number (you don't need a whole hand to count them) of barbecue joints that put out a product that would be accepted as the real thing in serious barbecue places like Memphis and Kansas City. They call it "Kentucky style." It works for me.

WHY IT'S GOOD
The essence of good barbecue is wood smoke and slow cooking. That, plus the use of well-butchered meats of good quality, explains everything here. The bark on the outside of the meats, the moistness of the interior, and the seasoning are right on target. The sauce--the least complicated part of good barbecue, no matter what anyone says--is delicious too.

BACKSTORY
Larry Wyatt moved to New Orleans over twenty years ago from Paducah, Kentucky, a place where barbecue is endemic. He made his own at home for years, always complaining that there were no good barbecue places in the area. He finally was persuaded to open this shop in 2001.

DINING ROOM
Like all good barbecue places, Hillbilly is less amenable for dining in than for taking out. It's a joint, with minimal amenities.

ESSENTIAL DISHES
Pulled pork shoulder.
Pork ribs.
Barbecue chicken.
Brisket.
Smoked boudin.
Potato salad.
Baked potato.
Cole slaw (vinegar-based dressing).
Corn salad.
Beans.

FOR BEST RESULTS
Order twice as much as you think you'll need and take it home. Make sure you get enough sauce.

OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
The staff here has lately warmed its attitude, but it's still not in the happy to see you categiry.

FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.

SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES

This review was updated with new information on 1/28/2010.

A list of over 300 full, current reviews is here.