Japanese.
CBD: 920 Poydras. 504-561-8914. Map.
Lunch Monday-Friday. Dinner seven nights.
Casual
AE DC MC V
WHY IT'S NOTEWORTHY
With terrific cooking from one of the widest-ranging Japanese menus in town, plus a first-class sushi bar, Horinoya is in a place few people think about for such eats: the CBD. People who work downtown, and some who go to events at the Superdome and the Arena know about it, though. And so do Japanese visitors, whose hotels are within walking distance.
WHY IT'S GOOD
Chef Komei is unusually choosy about the provenance of his raw materials, even by the exacting standards of Japanese chefs. The fish in the sushi bar is beautiful to behold, cut with precision, served at the perfect cool temperature, and vivid in flavor. You will almost certainly find a fish here you've never had before, or at least in a long time. The hot side of the menu features more foodstuffs one rarely sees--"mountain potato," for example.
BACKSTORY
In 2002 the Horimotos--a couple who formerly ran the excellent Little Tokyo franchise on St. Charles Avenue--took over a little cafe across from Le Pavillon Hotel. They gave the narrow space a bright, comfortable renovation and picked up where they left off.
DINING ROOM
This is a smaller restaurant than it at first appears, courtesy of an ingenious design--and mirrors. The first tables you encounter are barely inside the door. An archway in the rear leads to the sushi bar. The chef's wife is all over the room, making people comfortable and keeping the service snappy.
ESSENTIAL DISHES
Sushi and sashimi.
Chirashi sushi combination.
Grilled black cod.
Monkfish liver.
Beef negimaki.
Sukiyaki and shabu-shabu.
Multi-course kaiseki dinners.
FOR BEST RESULTS
At the sushi bar, ask questions about what may be available, insisting that you'll try anything. Lengthy kaiseki dinners of many small courses are available for alarmingly high prices ($60-100), but the experience is well worth the investment.
OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
The restaurant could stand a few repairs here and there.
FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.
- Dining Environment
- Consistency +2
- Service +1
- Value
- Attitude +1
- Wine and Bar
- Hipness +1
- Local Color
SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES
- Good for business meetings
- Medium private room
- Open Sunday dinner
- Open Monday lunch and dinner
- Open some holidays
- Quick, good meal
- Reservations accepted
This review was updated with new information on 8/17/2010.
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