The Restaurants We Can't Live Without By Tom Fitzmorris #115 Jamila's Tunisian. Uptown: 7806 Maple, 504-866-4366. Map. Dinner only, Tuesday-Sunday. AE MC V Click here for most recent full review    WHY IT'S ESSENTIAL    We don't have many Northern African restaurants in New Orleans, and this is certainly the only one essaying Tunisian food. It's a blend of Middle Eastern and French cooking, and distinctively different.    WHY WE LIKE IT   Moncef and Jamila Sbaa and their sons run the restaurant in person: Moncef not only serving most of the tables but shooting the breeze with his regulars, too. In the kitchen, Jamila cooks declicious versions of the familiar Middle Eastern dishes, and adds to it many unique dishes and couscous, made from scratch in genuine couscousiers. Everything's made from scratch, including the merguez--the classic Northern African sausage.    SURROUNDINGS   The main dining room is loaded with memorabilia from Tunisia. Another dining area inside an enclosed carriageway offers further seating and space for big parties.    ESSENTIAL DISHES  Steamed mussels. Merguez sausage. Brik (an appetizer in puff pastry). Mixed grill. Couscous. Baklava.    OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT   When they're busy, things slow down. But nobody seems to mind.    FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD    Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter. Dining Environment  +1 Service +1 Consistency +2 Value +2 Attitude +1 Wine And Bar Hipness Local Color    SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES   Private dining room (less than 25) Open Sunday Vegetarian dishes Quick, good meal Unusually large servings <>Easy, nearby parking  Click here for the index to all the reviews so far. © 2008 Tom Fitzmorris. All rights reserved. news@nomenu.com