Subscribe To The
Five-Star Edition!

Shrimp remoulade.

This review originally appeared in the New Orleans Menu Daily, which brings out a full, up-to-date restaurant review every weekday. Along with local restaurant news, top-ten lists, recipes, and Tom Fitzmorris's Dining Diary. All of it is original and current, illustrated with lots of photos of New Orleans restaurants, chefs, and their food.

The price of a subscription is whatever number of dollars seems right to you. For that amount, you get full access to the daily newsletter online, an e-mail bulletin version every day, and archives of everything published since Hurricane Katrina.

If you're still not convinced, do two things: 1. Know that I'll refund all your money if you're not happy. 2. Take a look at this sample edition. Then. . .

Thank you!

Tastefully yours,
Tom Fitzmorris


Restaurant Ratings

The ratings are based mostly on the degree to which the food excites us, and a little on environment, service, and other considerations. I rate restaurants relative to all other restaurants in the New Orleans area. Here's what the stars mean to me:

starstarstarstarstar
Among the best locally.

starstarstarstar
Excellent and ambitious.

starstarstar
Worth crossing town for.

starstar
Recommended.

*
Acceptable.

No star
Unacceptable.

Cost Ratings
Each dollar sign indicates a ten-dollar range, including a normal meal for the restaurant (dinner, if they serve other meals), not including drinks, or tips. So, for example. . .

1$--$5-15
2$--$15-25
3$--$25-35

. . . and so on, with no upper limit. While this scheme may suggest mathematical precision, know that perception of price varies from diner to diner as much as the star ratings do. So consider this an estimate.

All reviews are based entirely on meals I have personally taken at the restaurant and paid for from my own pocket. I don't take free review meals, nor am I reimbursed by anybody for my restaurant expenditures.

starstar
pricebar

Joe Sepie's

Italian. Sandwiches.
Jefferson: 4402 Jefferson Hwy . 504-324-5613 . Map.
Lunch Tuesday-Saturday. Dinner Wednesday-Saturday.
Casual.
MC V

WHY IT'S NOTEWORTHY
Jefferson Highway is the longest thoroughfare in East Jefferson Parish, lined with industry, businesses, and neighborhoods (some of then affluent). But it has very few restaurants. In Old Jefferson, the closing of Alonso's left the area without a good neighborhood cafe. Joe Sepie's, despite its minuscule size, is the best of a few who have filled this gap.

WHY IT'S GOOD
For such a tiny place, Joe Sepie's has a menu that covers more ground than do most neighborhood places. The joke in the name (say "Giuseppe") clues us into the Italian aspect of the kitchen. From it comes the standards of pasta and red (or white) sauce. Poor boy sandwiches are a big deal here, too. These achieve distinction by offering new variations on the standard ingredients (the roast bef poor boy, for example, can be had with a special sauce with mushrooms and an almost barbecue-like tang). They fry seafood platters to order and grill burgers of such juiciness that the name "splatburger" is entirely appropriate. They even make their own hot tamales--among the best around.

BACKSTORY
This little spot, for many years shared with a hardware store, opened in 2004 and quickly created a buzz among people who live and work in the area (notably among the staff at the enormous Ochsner Hospital, a mile away). It had been a poor boy shop called Grand Central Station for a few decades before, so it was easy for the neighbors to define.

DINING ROOM
The dining area is limited to a handful of tables just in front of the order counter, but with big enough windows to make it comfortable enough.

ESSENTIAL DISHES
Gumbo
Tamales
Greek salad with chicken or shrimp
Fried onion rings

Poor boy sandwiches:

Roast beef
Ultimate roast beef (with mushrooms, cheese, etc.)
Grilled ham
Pastrami
Meatball or sausage with red sauce
Fried oyster or shrimp
Muffuletta
Splatburgers (very juicy)

Red beans and rice with choice of sausages
Fried seafood platters
Crab cakes with white remoulade
Angel hair pasta with New Orleans sweet red sauce and meatballs or Italian sausage
Fettuccine Alfredo with crawfish, veal, or chicken
Angel hair pasta with meatballs, Italian sausage, breaded veal, or chicken

FOR BEST RESULTS
Show up on the late side of lunch, or for dinner. The Ochsner Hospital crowd loves the place.

OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
More space is the most obvious need.

FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.

SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES

This review was updated with new information on 6/2/2010.


A list of over 350 full, current reviews is here.