Mexican.
Gretna: 1412 Stumpf Blvd. 504-361-9142. Map.
Lunch and dinner continuously Monday-Saturday.
Very Casual
MC V
WHY IT'S NOTEWORTHY
This is what Mexican restaurants in New Orleans were like before the Americanized chains took over and made even family-run Mexican places seem plastic. Eating at La Fiesta--which I have done about every three years since my first review in 1977--is like entering a time machine. We have come a long way. The menu is dominated by combo platters of mainstream Tex-Mex dishes, prepared in a very plain style. A few new, very Mexican dishes have been added in recent years.
WHY IT'S GOOD
One of the most welcome, consistent, and inexplicable aspects of La Fiesta is that they serve the coldest beer in town. They always have. It balances the food and the scene perfectly. The cooking is reasonably good, but the minimal surroundings persuade some that it's much better.
BACKSTORY
This is the oldest Mexican restaurant in New Orleans, in continuous operation since 1972. The greatest changes in the offerings have occurred in the last few years, with the arrival of enough Hispanic customers that things like menudo and carne guisada are worth cooking.
DINING ROOM
An old, utilitarian building is furnished with booths the place bought from the short-lived Here's Johnny's restaurants in the 1970s. (It was a Johnny Carson theme restaurant.)
ESSENTIAL DISHES
Bean dip
Nachos
Guacamole
Taco salad
Fajita salad, chicken or beef
Mini-chimichangas
Quesadillas (chicken, beef, or cheese)
Menudo (Mexican tripe soup)
Fajitas, beef or chicken
Carne guisada (Tex-Mex beef stew)
Chiles rellenos platter
Mexican combo platters
Cheese and onion enchiladas
Beef enchiladas
Huevos rancheros
Scrambled eggs with chorizo
FOR BEST RESULTS
The new, more ethnically true dishes are better than I expected, but still the standout dish here is the enchiladas. The sauce is good, and they routinely make even the cheese enchiladas with grilled onions, the way everyone should. Those egg dishes are also designed for eaters who grew up with them.
OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
A total renovation of the building is long overdue. Parking is a problem when the place is busy.
FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.
- Dining Environment -2
- Consistency +1
- Service
- Value +1
- Attitude
- Wine and Bar
- Hipness
- Local Color -1
SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES
- Open Monday lunch and dinner
- Open all afternoon
- Unusually large servings
- Quick, good meal
- No reservations
This review was updated with new information on 6/29/2010.
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