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Restaurant Ratings

The ratings are based mostly on the degree to which the food excites us, and a little on environment, service, and other considerations. I rate restaurants relative to all other restaurants in the New Orleans area. Here's what the stars mean to me:

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Among the best locally.

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Excellent and ambitious.

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Worth crossing town for.

starstar
Recommended.

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Acceptable.

No star
Unacceptable.

Cost Ratings
Each dollar sign indicates a ten-dollar range, including a normal meal for the restaurant (dinner, if they serve other meals), not including drinks, or tips. So, for example. . .

1$--$5-15
2$--$15-25
3$--$25-35

. . . and so on, with no upper limit. While this scheme may suggest mathematical precision, know that perception of price varies from diner to diner as much as the star ratings do. So consider this an estimate.

All reviews are based entirely on meals I have personally taken at the restaurant and paid for from my own pocket. I don't take free review meals, nor am I reimbursed by anybody for my restaurant expenditures.

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Pupuseria La Macarena

Central American. Salvadoran.
Riverbend: 8120 Hampson. 504-861-4449 . Map.
Lunch and dinner continuously, seven days.
Breakfast Saturday-Sunday.
Casual.
Cash only.

WHY IT'S NOTEWORTHY
Of all the little Latin American cafes that have opened since the hurricane, this is the most interesting. The owners are clearly on the ball--maybe to the point of selling their food a little too enthusiastically. However, the cooking may exceed the hype. La Macarena's menu is primarily made up of the food of El Salvador, centering on pupusas--grilled, stuffed tortillas, the national dish of El Salvador. The rest of the menu is widely varied, and will take even a large table full of diners several visits to explore.

WHY IT'S GOOD
The ingredients are of great quality, and the cooking goes beyond merely delicious to end up as artful. The platters are almost too beautiful. Get over the prejudice that a restaurant must be funky to be authentic. Nothing about La Macarena's menu has been watered down for American consumption. On the other hand, the prices are higher than in most Central American restaurants. Which still leaves them pretty low.

BACKSTORY
The original, minimal location is in Kenner, opening in 2007. The Riverbend restaurant opened in 2009, and seems to be operated by the young side of the family.

La Macarena.

DINING ROOM
The Riverbend restaurant is small and oddly configured; it looks as if it had been a take-out place before La Macarena moved in. The service is orchestrated by two very enthusiastic young people, who tell you more than you might really want to know about the food and the culture of their homeland. The place has no liquor license, so you may bring in your own wine, beer, or whatever at no corkage fee.

ESSENTIAL DISHES
Tostaditas with beans and cheese or avocado
Ensalada tropical
Olives and heart of palm (cold plate)
Guacamole
Fried yuca
Stuffed corn pies with veggies or chicken
Avocado and tomato salad
Sweet corn tamale
Montaditos (canapes with chorizo, salami, shrimp, meatballs, filet mignon, or shredded beef)
Shrimp ceviche
Mini-tamales with pulled pork or chicken
Flautas/taquitos de pollo
Shrimp, mushroom and cheese stuffed yuca dumplings
Pupusas (stuffed, grilled tortillas)
Black bean soup
Combination platters of pupusas, enchiladas, tamales, etc. (photo below)
Ropa vieja (pulled brisket with beans and rice)
Carne asada (filet mignon)
Mayan roast turkey sandwich
Isabela's Mayan stewed chicken
Grilled chicken and shrimp platter
Pan seared flounder
Spanish garlic shrimp
Tres leches cake
Flan

Entree combo platter.

FOR BEST RESULTS
A dinner made entirely of tapas is a very good idea, although the entrees are good, too. A Latin American breakfast is available on Saturdays and Sundays.

OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
The no-credit card policy, despite the whining paragraph on the menu about how much the credit card companies take out, is simply an unwarranted inconvenience for customers.

FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.

SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES

This review was updated with new information on 8/11/2010.


A list of over 350 full, current reviews is here.