The Restaurants We Can't Live Without By Tom Fitzmorris #158 Latil's Landing at Houmas House Contemporary Creole. River Parishes: In Houmas House Plantation, 225-473-9380.  Map. Dinner Wednesday-Saturday. 2-7 p.m. Sunday. Nice casual. AE DC DS MC V www.houmashouse.com/restaurant.htm    WHY IT'S ESSENTIAL    Dining in an antebellum plantation has tremendous appeal both to locals and visitors, but the supply of plantation homes dwindles, and few of them serve food of note. Latil's Landing, the restaurant in the magnificent Houmas House Plantation halfway between New Orleans and Baton Rouge, is without question the best of them. Good enough that it's worth the trip even when you're not showing guests around.    WHY IT'S GOOD   The kitchen is managed by Chef Jeremy Langlois, a talented young protege of Chef John Folse. Only here and there do historic methods of preparation appear. This is very much a Louisiana gourmet menu, quite up to date with current tastes and ingredients.    BACKSTORY    The plantation house was built in the 1770s, and was in continuous operation for most of its history. It's still surrounded by vast acreage of sugar cane, although the house is no longer involved in farming. Tours of the house go on constantly, telling a classic story of the Old South before the Civil War. Owner Kevin Kelly bought the plantation in the 1990s, and went on an aggressive program of restoration--some of which is controversial.    DINING ROOM   The dining room is in the oldest part of the main house, and its antiquity is clear. Windows give a second-story view of the lushly planted grounds outside. Sometimes they also serve in the main house's grand dining parlor. Service is simple but good.    ESSENTIAL DISHES  Roasted oysters with pickled mirlitons and Creole cream cheese. Foie gras on savory lost bread. Rabbit and andouille gumbo. Beet and crab salad. Quail salad. Sauteed black drum with lobster ravioli. Filet mignon with oyster mushroom demi-glace. Coffee marinated rack of lamb. Tasting menu.    FOR BEST RESULTS     The best time to dine is Sunday afternoon, when they open at two and keep going. That allows time for a tour.    OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT   The menu has always struck me as being a bit too contemporary for the setting. Some historical dishes would be welcome.    FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD    Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter. Dining Environment +2 Service +1 Consistency +1 Value  Attitude +1 Wine And Bar +2 Hipness +2 Local Color +3    SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES   Romantic Windows with a view Good for children Good for business meetings Private dining room (less than 25) Private dining room (more than 25) Open Sunday Open most holidays Historic Easy, nearby parking Reservations accepted Reservations honored promptly Click here for the index to all the reviews so far. © 2008 Tom Fitzmorris. All rights reserved. news@nomenu.com